Today in Fashion Week: February 22nd

Hi there! Unfortunately, we’re going to have to make this short today, but there are only a few shows to get through to finish off the season in London.

Mary Katrantzou

Mary Katrantzou had a breakthrough last season with her architecture-inspired collection of wearable art, which won the adoration of critics across the world. Perhaps she didn’t see it as as much of a turning point as everyone else did, however, because she didn’t exactly proceed from there this season. Instead the collection began with some riffs on print explosion–geometric prints worn with busy floral tights, for instance. Gradually, she brought some of the prints from last season’s collection back, and that was by far the highlight of the lineup. That being said, however, this was far from a worthy follow-up to that last brilliant collection. Katrantzou had quickly gained fame the good old fashion way: with pure talent and ingenuity. But she didn’t make good on the promise of that collection this time around, and for that reason her showing was quite a disappointment.

Marios Schwab

Marios Schwab served up simplicity this season, and ladylike, considerably conservative clothes were on the menu. It must get exhausting, being a constantly colorful London designer, and some of them seem to be having their minimal moment. You can’t blame them, but they’re hopefully the only ones still stuck on that trend. The collection wasn’t too bad, but it didn’t make much of an impression. Then again, it wasn’t until I saw the sneaky details on Schwab’s collection last season that I gained a reasonable level of respect for it, after, of course, I wrote a less-than-favorable review. Well, sir, I apologize. I hope you have some serious tricks up your sleeve this season, too.

Aquascutum

Aquascutum’s got a brand new design director, and a revamped appearance to match. Though it can often be one of the more traditional British brands, this season’s collection had a colorful, funky verve to it. There was more diversity in the looks as well, which has sometimes been a problem for the label. All in all, it was a promising debut sizzling with revitalized energy.

Alright, it was a short but sweet day. Come back tomorrow for our first update from Milan, with shows from Gucci & Alberta Ferretti!

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