Today in Fashion Week: February 18th
February 19, 2009 § Leave a comment
My my, yesterday seemed like a busy day, but I really have no idea what I’m getting myself into today! Yours truly (I think I’m gonna pretend to be Andre Leon Talley for the remainder of Fashion Month. Life With Andre makes me giggle uncontrollably.) has some favorites today, so perhaps it’ll be a little easier to get through.
In a season where designers are striving to be bankable, Michael Kors took a tongue-in-cheek approach to redefining the classics. Trends of the moment like the strong shoulders soon to be everywhere made appearances, but the collection was decidedly restrained. Those “staples” like the trench coat, investment-worthy skirt suit, and little black dress were sure to be found. But gimmicks like a detached lapel (admittedly effective) were worked into the pieces lest they be called boring.
There’s more if you
Richard Chai was yet another victim of the shortened show epidemic. But, even still, he didn’t let it inhibit his vision. The plaid print he picked out is beautiful amidst the dark, grungy tone he seems to be pulling for. While surely I could never love this as much as his menswear collection, this is a close second.
Oscar de la Renta
Oscar de la Renta is always on the top of his game, because he’s one of the designers that just emanates this stuff. But before I talk about the collection, let me tell you, that Marie Curie meets Amy Winehouse hair is certifiable as a “HOT.MESS.” Ahem. That being said, de la Renta was seemingly having more of a moment than usual. Something about the collection seemed to defy the stuffy persona he’s used to filling. The series of gowns at the end, however, seemed more than a little ostentatious for this season.
3.1 Phillip Lim
There was a clear message to Phillip Lim’s show: rock on! Basing your collection on rock gods is almost like a free pass to go as crazy with patterns and textures as possible. So, naturally, Lim’s show was packed with varying forms: gold sequins, ruffly blouses, shoulder padded jackets. But there’s something about his young, polished perspective that always prevents him from making a faux pas. This is certainly a move in the right direction for the future of Lim’s company.
For someone known as one of the most accessible designers for–how do we say this–professional women, Narciso Rodriguez was surprisingly playful with his Fall collection. During a small sector of the show, he had models parading out in buckets with eyeholes and dare-I-say cow print suits(?). But he seemed to manage to contain himself. Pieces like slouchy silk blouses and jackets adorned with visible zippers are more suited for his design-loving clientele who can’t dress like the front row fixtures we’ve come to know and love.
Georgina Chapman’s Marchesa show was similar (in all senses, really) to her previous one. I thought the last one was stunning, but lightning doesn’t strike twice. That’s why some of the best designers fade away: they get good at one thing and then never change.
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Was else is there to say but beautiful? Well, for one thing, it’s thoroughly brilliant. For another, it’s completely original. The tights are hands down the most stunning accessory I’ve seen so far this season. But the main pieces aren’t so bad themselves. Sharp and expertly constructed, Chung proved she has the chops to beat out pretty much all of her contemporaries. Raise your glass to the future of design, because I’m pretty sure we’re looking at her.
Reinventing your brand might not be a smart thing to do if it’s a bestseller, but Tory Burch was clearly determined to do it anyway. She’s the queen of moderate fashion, neither frilly nor tough. So it’s surprising to say, but she had some striking successes.
- Marc Jacobs took a front row seat at the debut of 1909 Victorinox’s menswear collection. It’s hardly consistent with Jacobs’ typical routine: he very rarely attends shows at all. (From Fashionologie)
- Vladamir Restoin-Roitfeld’s gallery opening and subsequent after-party attracted quite an audience last night. Among the famous faces? His mother Carine and sister Julia, Lily Donaldson, Mario Testino, Lara Stone, Erin Wasson, and Gisele Bundchen. (From Fashionologie)
- Opening Ceremony just opened an online store to spread the wealth of their coveted stocked brands. The url is www.openingceremony.us (From The Pipeline)
- Update on Coco Rocha for E!. Turns out it’s a full-length piece about the life of models. She’ll be interviewing various types of fashion insiders for it. Meanwhile, she’s resumed her catwalk duties as she continues to film the segment. It is due to air in March. (From Elle News)
- Nothing will stir up the pot a little like the CEO of LVMH showing up to your show. That’s just what happened at Rodarte. There’s no word on what the massive French holding company is eyeing them for. (From WWD)
- Looks like you can add another name to the list of Vogue May cover models. Caroline Trentini, a veteran for US Vogue, is rumored to be joining. She’s already known for her repeat jump pose in the pages of the magazine. (From Fashionologie)
Ok, actually that wasn’t that bad. There were lots of good shows to keep me going. Phew. Tomorrow’s shows include Phi, Calvin Klein, Douglas Hannant, & Zac Posen. Come back for that and more! Also, we’ll be discussing Proenza. Tsk tsk tsk.