September 28, 2009 § Leave a comment
I should start off by saying that this post is a LIE. Just after I had put the finally-punctual post to bed last night, I found out that, of course, the schedule I was following failed to mention some shows. So we have two to get to that occurred yesterday, for those of you obsessed with the legitimacy of this here post.
Karl Lagerfeld was having a quieter moment at Fendi (so quiet he couldn’t bother to get himself on the schedule, ahem), meaning that it wasn’t nearly as strong as the past few seasons have been. The show wasn’t bad by any means, but it was a bit of a snoozer. Somewhere between the short pleated skirts and the sheerness I thought, wait, haven’t I seen this before? Yes, yes I have, and it’s called Spring 2008. Full Show Here.
Originally, Versus was established as a project for a young Donatella Versace to nourish her flair for design with. Needless to say, her work at the label did not go unnoticed, and her subservient designs earned her the top spot at Versace. Now that the ’80s are back and better than ever, Donatella decided to relaunch the brand so dear to her heart, signing on another relatively unknown designer, Christopher Kane. Kane made his debut with the line last season with a small collection of accessories, shoes and clutches and the like accessorized with hard rock details. This season’s ready to wear collection didn’t stray much from that formula. The cuts are just as youthful and revealing as we’d expect, the accents, lace and safety pins being the standouts, don’t offer much originality. Though Kane is certainly working with a look here, the question arises: what does Versus have to offer that isn’t already out there? Being aware of Kane’s potential, it’s hard to write off this reincarnation just yet. But had it have been a completely unknown designer, there may be some trouble right about now. Full Show Here.
Ok, that about wraps up our time in Milan. Join us on Wednesday for the start of the Paris shows, including Anne Valerie Hash, Limi Feu, Rochas, Gareth Pugh, and Rue Du Mail! Oh and Happy Yom Kippur!!
September 28, 2009 § Leave a comment
I’m back, dammit, and better than ever. This post is on time, my reviews are masterpieces, and I’ve had a lot of coffee. Everything is right in the TGTEF-universe. Let’s check in with Milan.
Marni started out a little bit…interesting this season, with the brand’s signature quirkiness seemingly gone awry. The collection came together towards the middle, however, and the whole thing started to make sense. Consuelo Castiglioni seemed to have stripes the brain, which gradually evolved to a columnar motif throughout the collection. Awkwardly cut biker shorts, fashion’s new obsession, were shown devoid of their usual thigh-skimming effect, in a loose cut that will be difficult to tackle but legendary should it be achieved. All in all, it wasn’t one of Castiglioni’s stronger showings, but it’ll do. Full Show Here. « Read the rest of this entry »
September 27, 2009 § Leave a comment
Hello dear friends! I must apologize for the lateness. It seems my promise just made things worse. So I don’t promise it’ll be on time today. Ha!
Bottega Veneta was a study in relaxed chic, with looser silhouettes done up in a mostly nude pallet with splashes of neon yellow. Some of the pieces were reminiscent of Lanvin, admittedly a hard reference to resist, but the look and feel was all Bottega. Nicely done! Full Show Here. « Read the rest of this entry »
September 26, 2009 § 1 Comment
I sure chose a bad day to be late. The Milan shows kicked off yesterday and they’re crammed into a minuscule period of 5 days. Today is the second day, but I’ve also got the first (which includes Prada, freak out now) to get out of the way. So let’s waste no time!
Ohhhhhhhhh Miuccia. I’m a well established devotee to her artistic wiles, which she certainly seems to be abound with. Every season, without fail, she delivers a collection that summons edicts of disappointment and bewilderment. And every season, inevitably, her collection is plastered across the magazines, the signature pieces repeated so often they become like dear friends to us. This season, she shied away from so of her more off-kilter pieces and offered a collection that seemed, dare I say it, accessible. Of course, accessible really only counts in fashion if you’re of model age and proportions. But (relatively) accessible it was. The look was, as mentioned, youthful, with takes on the suit shown with cut-off shorts, the kind done in dressier materials she invented at her men’s show this season. Also on the shorts front were Bermuda shorts, an inevitable return with the reemergence of biker shorts, which were also present in the collection. But perhaps more notable were the series of photo prints she showed on dresses and jackets alike. High-contrast beach scenes more colorful than a Bollywood film were juxtaposed against rigid, dull-colored fabrics. Elsewhere, Prada experimented with a sort of expensive-looking fishnet, draping it in ways that slyly exhibited the hard-earned Summer figure. All in all, it’ll stay on our minds all throughout the Spring season, but it won’t come to be known as one of her strongest moments. Of course, when your weakest is this strong… Full Show Here. « Read the rest of this entry »
September 23, 2009 § Leave a comment
Day…4 of London Fashion Week has come and gone, and here is a look at the disturbingly small handful of shows that took place today.
Christopher Bailey seems to be enjoying Burberry’s heritage lately, moving the show back to London for LFW’s 25th anniversary, but it’s hard to tell from his Spring collection. Whereas Bailey has been astoundingly loyal to the brand’s roots, reinventing the trench coat every season as if it were the wheel, this season marked somewhat of a departure. The trench coat made a few cameos, in ruffly incarnations and converted into minidresses, but it was hardly the focal point as it has been in the past. Instead, Bailey had his eye on draping, playing with the fabric as much as he could on his bodycon canvases. There’s no lamentation if he wants to deviate a bit from his usual formula. But his choice of material in this collection is sort of odd. Under his direction, Burberry has become the epitome of cool whilst maintaining a relatively staid approach to dressing. The idea of showing such flashy pieces seems more than a little off from his typical outlook. Full Show Here.
September 22, 2009 § Leave a comment
Hello everyone! First off, let me just apologize for my tardiness over the past few posts. London Fashion Week is really disorganized and it’s kind of time-consuming to make sense of it all. So there’s a good chance I’ve missed out on some shows that are actually worth my time, but I’m doing my best here. Anyway, let’s get to yesterday’s shows.
The things money will do to people. The r-word has infiltrated fashion much like the mucus creature in the Mucinex-DM commercials. Who knows if it’s entirely to blame, but Luella Bartley, she of the ostentatious frills, toned it down quite a bit this season. Not that that’s a disparaging remark; her streamlined effort retains her girly wiles yet fits much more nicely into the income-having woman’s wardrobe. But I fear if Bartley goes any further the apocalypse will surely ensue. Full Show Here. « Read the rest of this entry »
September 21, 2009 § 1 Comment
We’ve reached Day 2 of London Fashion Week! Already the buzz is that the London designers are doing quite well for themselves this season. See for yourselves:
Jasmine di Milo
Jasmine di Milo’s Spring collection was full of contradictions. The cuts said sexy, but the pallet screamed demure. Di Milo is, by some miracle, a little known designer. But given that she consistently delivers solid collections, one hopes she’ll receive a little more recognition. Full Show Here. « Read the rest of this entry »