A Day in Fashion Week: September 17th

September 19, 2009 § Leave a comment

My, this post sure is…fashionably late? I do apologize; I was abducted by aliens. Anyway, I can’t leave you hanging on the last day of shows (of course, you didn’t just go to style.com or anything. You’re refreshing this blog waiting for this) so let’s get it out of the way.

Ralph Lauren





















After all these years as a fashion force of nature, Ralph Lauren is really just a po’ boy after all. What else could explain the Great Depression-quasi-chic he clouded his runway with? Of course, we know what inspired this move (don’t say the r word. Just don’t), but one wonders what he was thinking. Show me a woman who wants to pay top dollar to look like she raided the men’s section of a Goodwill and I’ll show you someone with way too much money on her hands. Luckily, he wisely balanced this move with a more airy second half of the collection, but the show never recovered from the questionable beginning. Full Show Here.

Phi





















Having positioned himself at the forefront of the bodycon movement with Phi, Andreas Melbostad has the fashion world’s full attention. Perhaps unsurprisingly, this season’s show featured all the typical details: the skinny pants, the tough-chic hardware, and so the list goes on. Not to complain, as Melbostad wouldn’t be where he is if it wasn’t an impressive array of features. But the more interesting pieces broke a little bit away from what we’ve seen before. He experimented with slight variations of oversize-wear, though nothing too extreme, and shifted his focus to buckles, which are quickly becoming the new staple of the neo-punk revolution (now that studs are beyond banal). Furthermore, the usually all-black pallet was shaken up a little with forays into the Springy nude shades that are once again a focus of this Spring’s collections. The good news, Andreas Melbostad, is that we’re still listening. Way to keep it fresh. Full Show Here.

Isaac Mizrahi




















Fake rain and funny hats and a comedian on the runway, oh my! Isaac Mizrahi sure will go to any lengths to cheer up the all-too-serious fashion crowd. The ironic thing, however, is that his clothes, this season a balancing act between mannish separates and feminine ruffly dresses, don’t necessitate any of these gimmicks. They rival all of the more self important designers’, but come with a healthy dose of self-deprecation. What’s not to love? Full Show Here.

Calvin Klein






















Women of questionable morals: shield your eyes. Francisco Costa’s latest and strongest collection in a few good seasons may actually tempt you to wear white after Labor Day. Oh, the scandal. Besides his procession of covetable pristine white pieces, Costa offered up varying shades of grey (plus one completely random yellow dress) in wrinkled fabrics, the anti-iron way of the future. Worn with flat platform sandals, the overall easy look is sure to gain a plethora of proponents come next Spring. Full Show Here.

ThreeASFOUR
















With the resurgence of Beatlemania came a collaboration between the folks over at ThreeASFOUR and Yoko Ono. The collection they produced had its ups and downs. To start, they went with the mostly-black, bodyskimming silhouette, a look that’s so strong it’s been done one thousand times in the past few seasons. Luckily, there were some minor innovations to the concept that kept it interesting. The paneled leggings sprouted ruffles at the knees; peekaboo sheer swimsuits wouldn’t look out of place at an art installation. Overall, the collaboration with Ono didn’t seem to yield the drastic difference between this show and others that was expected, but it’s hard to deny some of the visceral impact. Full Show Here.

Tommy Hilfiger






















Filling Ralph Lauren’s shoes for the season, Tommy Hilfiger showed another classic All-American collection to fill his new boutique with. Though it’d be easy for his look to get stale, Hilfiger keeps it interesting by subtly moving forward each season. Full Show Here.

Better late than never? I finished what I started, and that’s….great. I’ll be back later tonight with my first update from London. Cheeky.

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