Today in Fashion Week: February 18th
February 20, 2010 § Leave a comment
You know that feeling when you’ve put something off for so long that the thought of doing it at all seems impossible? Yeah, me neither. Thursday’s post is just a weeeeee bit late today, as life comes at you fast (Thursday) and I’ve been busy looking through the Prada archives (yesterday). Luckily London hosted less than a stellar lineup yesterday, so we’ve only got the one day to catch up on. And it just so happens that it’s the last of New York. Let’s get it over with to it!
Remember that whole neogrunge movement I noticed starting on the first day of the week? Well, with the blessing of Ralph Lauren, it appears to be totally and unequivocally on. The look was so faithful at times that it was like something directly out of 1990. This had some questionable side effects, but Ralph’s modern interpretations made it worth the lesser bits and pieces. One think that’s unmistakable is his reference. The look came out in floor length summery floral dresses layered over long knits, bulky sweaters paired with skirts (floor length again, of course), heavy velvets, and full length men’s coats. Grunge, baby, grunge. It’s not surprising that designers have chosen this as fodder given the circumstances, but nevertheless I’m looking to the development of this look.
Isaac Mizrahi’s Fall collection was inspired by Central Park, and it’s not hard to see how. His takes on utility in punchy Fall colors had all the whimsy he’s known for with a jubilantly pragmatic streak. Not everything was made for a walk in the park, such as some sequin dresses that were surprisingly fresh, but Mizrahi stuck closely to his theme for the most part, and it paid off.
In the past few seasons, Francisco Costa has, I think, become so fixated on innovative fabrics and novel riffs on technologies that he had forgotten the original impact of his collections for Calvin Klein. His unparalleled minimalistic upside-down take on sportswear was something to behold, but he had all but forgotten it. Now, it seems, he’s back on track. The collection this season was mostly about the tailoring, which is really what it should be in his case. Save for a few bright blue looks, the majority of the collection was monochrome, which allowed for him to get away with less disguising and more intensive tailoring. Gone were the gimmicks, and back was the spirit of his first few collections. Welcome back!
Tommy Hilfiger has been a bit staid for as far as anyone can remember–not impairingly so, but enough that he’s not really a go-to designer for cool girls. That may change this season, however, as rising star Peter Som was brought in to consult on the line. Who could think of a better fit? Hilfiger’s tried and true preppy standards were turned on their head with a hipper streak, a much more modern statement than a one-note show. I’d say that Som’s involvement is definitely a boon to the brand, and if they’re smart they’ll keep him on. This collection is, I think, one of the best from New York this season.
That’s it for New York! I wanted to reflect and stuff, but I don’t really have the energy. So I’ll save it for my season-end reflection. I’ll be back later today with the first update from London, with Charles Anastase, Danielle Scutt, Topshop Unique, Mark Fast, Mary Katranztou, House of Holland, John Rocha, Ann Sofie-Back, and PPQ!