Today in Fashion Week:February 28th
March 4, 2010 § Leave a comment
Hello again! We’ve got the last day of Milan Fashion Week to get through, and it’s going out with a bang! There’s a lot to see before we can move on to Paris, so let’s get to it.
Where, oh where, would Marni be without a mainstream to defy? Though occasionally ugly for ugly’s sake, Marni was much more in touch with what an off-kilter girl wants this season than the last. The optical prints, very mod in a way, added a nice dose of whimsy that will resonate greatly with customers. Quietly charming and well done.
Dolce & Gabbana
Remember Dolce & Gabbana’s Spring collection? Well, I sure do, and Stefano & Domenico don’t seem to be able to forget it. Indeed, last season’s lingerie and lace were back in a big way, but at this point it’s all a bit hackneyed. What statement are they making, using the platform of their major luxury company to showcase an endless array of unwearable, if pretty, lingerie? That being said, however, they did venture into some more realistic territory in doses, which proved to be glimmering highlights. It just seems like a slap in the face that their main customer base is “too old” to wear what they’re sending down the runway.
At the end of the day, I most admire Etro for its predictability, in some ways. For instance, you can always predict that there will be an international aesthetic; an unquenchable taste for the exotic. Yet, there’s also an unexpected streak to the brand, in the fascinating combinations of texture and volume. This season, those two themes were as prevalent as ever, but things were adapted to the military obsession of late with the inclusion of sharply tailored menswear anchoring down the more showy of pieces. As always, the collection was intriguing and ultimately winning. This is what I feel luxury should be like in the modern sense of the word.
Just two seasons ago, the Missoni brand reached new heights of popularity with a groundbreaking and incredibly poignant layered collection. Now, a year later, there’s an awful lot to live up to, but this season’s collection was amazingly successful in doing so. The aesthetic from the first collection for last Fall has been broken down and revamped, for an effect that’s less granola and more va-va-voom. All in all, I’d definitely go as far as calling this one of the best of the season so far.
For Donatella Versace,Versus was an outlet in which she could hone her skills but express her youthfulness. Christopher Kane’s reincarnation of the label has earned rave reviews, but up until now it’s been a little uptight, if you really think about it. This season, he loosened up a bit, and it’s to his advantage. The dresses with sky-high hemlines that marked his first endeavor for the label were back, but reinvented in more playful techniques. Another development, perhaps the best part of the outing, was the inclusion of one or two separates. Though the aesthetic he’s predicated his collections on is quickly becoming extinct, it shows that he’s moving forward. Long live Versus!
Finally! After a long delay I’ve finally finished up with Milan. But we’ve got a lot more to go through, so come back later for the first updates from Paris, including Dries van Noten, Rochas, Gareth Pugh, Balenciaga, Balmain, Rick Owens, and Nina Ricci!