September 30, 2010 § 1 Comment
Hello hello hello my dears! While I’m on this hot streak of punctuality, I’m gonna get right to the shows instead of spending valuable time on a fancy introduction. On with it, then!
Balenciaga: taking it to the streets. You never know where Nicolas Ghesquiere is going to take things, given his wide breadth of references, but you can always expect him to take it somewhere definitively. This time, he was feeling punky, which translated to houndstooth, leather, and models wearing sneakers. That describes the opening looks, at least, but they didn’t strike a chord. As the show progressed, Ghesquiere lightened his approach, and the results were more favorable. The most appealing looks suggested real individuality, rather than the constructed cliche of “punk.” Particularly successful were some menswear suiting looks and a paneled cardigan worn with a contrast polka dot shirt. This was not a bad collection, but it also wasn’t a great one. The street punk thing, now done to death, was a rare bad turn for Ghesquiere. It was no coincidence that when he deviated from that concept a bit the results were winning. « Read the rest of this entry »
September 28, 2010 § Leave a comment
Hello once again! Sorry for the delay in posts lately, but today is a day off from fashion month so we’ll be caught up once we get through the final shows from Milan. On to those then!
A mainstay designer is only as good as his or her signatures, and signatures Roberto Cavalli certainly has. It doesn’t take much brainstorming; fringe, snakeskin, lace-up pants. In short: a recipe for disaster. If anyone else were to build a collection, let alone a career, out of these elements, they’d be out of luck. But in Cavalli’s able & experienced hands, they can often defy their less-than-ideal connotations. This season, his signatures were front and center, but he wisely made each look a mishmash of all of them instead of highlighting them separately. Maybe the overabundance of things to process made it less visually offensive, but the combination was almost otherworldly in its overdetailed glory. Cavalli is not the most tasteful of designers, but he knows who he is, and he is undeniably skilled at communicating that. He might not change things up very often, but he always manages to make enough subtle tweaks that his collections fit in with the rest of the season, even if they’re perhaps not memorable as standouts. « Read the rest of this entry »
September 27, 2010 § 1 Comment
It’s that time again! Milan Fashion Week is coming to a close, and we’re on the second to last day. And, as it always goes, they’ve saved some of the best for last. Let’s go!
Personally, I think one of the most memorable moments in fashion over the past decade has been Missoni’s sudden evolution into one of the most exciting and directional brands out there. Whatever it is they did, it was certainly a shrewd decision, and it’s resulted in a string of superb collections. This season’s falls right into that category. Though the reliance on layered knits is toned down and streamlined, the mixed prints and unexpected silhouettes are still to be found. This collection is a bit of a departure, however, in that it’s colorful and bright. The gorgeous printed dresses and wide brim hats, plus the printed sandals, are some of the most satisfying clothes that have been seen all season. There really isn’t much to say, except that I’d go as far as to say this usurps Jil Sander as the best show of the season. « Read the rest of this entry »
September 26, 2010 § Leave a comment
Hello again! Milan Fashion Week is winding down, as is Fashion Month itself. And though we’re slowly but surely mapping out the season, we’re not ready to say goodbye just yet. Now let’s get on to those shows!
Raf Simons is nothing if not a minimalist, but unlike other designers who have tried it on for size recently, he’s quite good at it. You see, Simons understands that minimalism is not all about muted colors and things we’ve already seen before. For him and the handful of other truly adept minimalists, the aesthetic is all about stripping away distractions to get right down into the nitty gritty of innovation. That was especially true of today’s Jil Sander collection, which can only be described as wildly inventive. The plays on volume and length in heavy, wide floor length skirts are memorable and sure to have a great presence in the editorial world when it comes to be that time. Also especially important here is color. Simons is a master of the “pop of color” against neutrals that strengthens its impact, and he put that skill to good use here with a wide array of brights like orange and hot pink. All in all, it was a greatly powerful collection, and is definitely in contention for best of the season so far. « Read the rest of this entry »
September 25, 2010 § 2 Comments
Buongiorno! Milan Fashion Week is continuing on, and things are starting to get serious. Seriously delicious! What? Anyway, let’s get to those shows, sonnies.
Sometimes you just have to roll with the punches, and this season is one of those cases for brands who have built their name on sexiness. Sure, sexy has been all the rage for years now, but this season it’s being put on the backburner. Instead of seeing how short and tight we can get our clothes, we’re seeing how long and loose we can get them. Some brands that have been definitively pro-sexy have stumbled already this season, but Donatella Versace seemed determined not to be one of them. In fact, her latest collection proves that you don’t have to change your aesthetic to keep up with the times. The collection will fit into the Versace canon quite well, but the subtle variations–skirts below the knee, graphic colors, etc.–make it distinctly apropos. Cleverly, as logomania has subsided over the years, Donatella found a creative way to bring it back. Her colorful prints incorporated the Grecian-esque logo, and some dresses even had the brand name discreetly printed on the front of them. This may not have been Donatella’s most eloquent or realized collection, but it was a success in terms of being of-the-moment and showcasing new ideas. « Read the rest of this entry »
September 23, 2010 § Leave a comment
Welcome, my friends, to a day of reckoning. As Fashion Month approaches its final stages, we’re in the midst of the collections that will shape our dreams and daydreams alike for the next few months. Today is a very important day in Milan, in my extremely biased opinion. Today, friends, is the day of PRADA.
Miuccia Prada started her show with a bang–a whoosh of light on her light-up runway–but you couldn’t really say the same for her collection. The first few looks had a lot to do with her most recent men’s show, with bold-colored riffs on scrubs and workwear and shoes with thick rainbow-striped soles. Those will look great in the group shots for her next ad campaign, but they obviously weren’t the real story. No, the real story came when those first subtle looks evolved into a cacophony of exuberant colorful stripes and monkey motifs. The best looks had to be the striped skirt suits worn with giant matching hats and the white dresses with explosions of color and pictures of monkeys and what looked like dancers with pineapples on their heads. Oh, in other news, Miuccia went bananas. There were banana printed shirts and skirts, plus bananas in combination with monkeys, but perhaps most buzzed of all were the banana earrings Miuccia wore to take her bow. The mood in fashion has been self-serious for a while now, but the message that a little humor never hurt anyone should be particularly effective coming from such a credible source.
September 22, 2010 § 1 Comment
And around the world we go. After stops in New York in London, Fashion Month has landed in Milan. And though it’s shorter than New York, Milan Fashion Week is longer than London, and filled with enough heavy hitters to comprise a rap song completely. (Gucci Pucci Prada Gabbana?) On to the the shows!
Frida Giannini’s work at Gucci over the years has been characterized by two distinct styles. One is bohemian; flowy and goddess-like. The other is sleek and modern, quite the polar opposite of the other. Of course, this being Gucci, where Tom Ford’s classic brand of glamour found a particularly welcoming home, the second usually wins out. Perhaps Giannini was tired of that, because her latest collection for the house is something of a fusion of the two. The pallet and silhouette are sleek; punchy colors alongside black and beige, slim trousers and minidresses. But the inspiration–seemingly safari and other world-traveler motifs–belonged more to the former style. Though the change was and always is welcome, the show didn’t seem particularly relevant or indicative of the excitement such a storied brand promises. The best pieces were the more complex ones, not because bigger is necessarily better, but rather because there wasn’t much to be seen with the simpler ones. « Read the rest of this entry »