Today in Fashion Week: September 16th
September 17, 2010 § 1 Comment
Don’t cry for me Argentina readers. Today is the last day of New York Fashion Week. So far, we haven’t really had a definitive moment. We’ve had a collective yearning for ease and fluidity: longer hemlines, looser fits. So it wasn’t a bust, but I think this season has yet to be spoken for. Maybe someone will change that today?
Western America has been used as a reference point for a couple seasons now, most notably in a D&G collection, but it’s always been cowboy-inspired, tough and gritty. Instead of this female cowboy, Ralph Lauren designed for a cowgirl with his latest collection. Those familiar elements–fringe, suede, and the like—were shown against a more breezy base, the sort of fluid separates that have taken over this season. The collection, as Ralph’s always are, is pretty, practical, and most notably, relevant to real women and the way they want to dress.
Jeremy Laing went surprising minimal this season, for a designer known to employ an intricate technique or two. It makes sense, however, given the current moment in fashion. The veering away from rock-chic tough girls must be traumatic for darker designers such a Laing, who once believed their aesthetic would live on forever. Instead, they’re finding, they’ll have to adapt; to find their own ways of expressing the new emphasis on ease and simplicity. Laing did a fantastic job of doing just that this season. There were memorable looks, particularly colorblocked dresses and floor-sweeping knits, as well as a bevy of quiet but commercially appealing looks. The moral of the story? Be open-minded, and maybe your designs will be more interesting than they ever were.
Isaac Mizrahi went light and floaty this season, but it didn’t make much of an impact. Other than a few looks worn with sheer blouses and a satin color, the collection didn’t really resonate. Too bad.
L’Wren Scott has always stood out for her admiration of retro sensibilities but thoroughly present-day designs, but this season, she fit right in. Sure, her fit is hardly loose, as is the one of the major trends of the season, but there is that element of simplicity; that studied elegance that is becoming lusted after in the wake of the grungy noughties. Like many others, Scott was having a white moment, and the best results were soft but sharp, elegant but unfussy.
Designers like Francisco Costa could have taken extended vacations this summer. They could do the very of-the-minute minimalism in their sleep. Not that it looks like that’s what Costa has done. In fact, whereas his minimal vision was starting to look simply blank, this season’s collection had a revitalized energy to it. A simple pallet, as always, paired with this season’s lax silhouettes made for a sleek and desirable collection. Maybe this newfound interest in his aesthetic made him more confident, for it was his best work in what feels like years.
Well that does it for New York! It’s been a pretty good season, but I for one am craving some European drama after a week of understatement. And, of course, the latest installment in the ongoing saga of Prada. Ah, yes, we’ll have new Prada to swoon at just a little over a week! Join us tomorrow for the first stop in our European voyage, London, with collections from Twenty8Twelve, Unique, and House of Holland!