Today in Fashion Week: September 26th
September 27, 2010 § 1 Comment
It’s that time again! Milan Fashion Week is coming to a close, and we’re on the second to last day. And, as it always goes, they’ve saved some of the best for last. Let’s go!
Personally, I think one of the most memorable moments in fashion over the past decade has been Missoni’s sudden evolution into one of the most exciting and directional brands out there. Whatever it is they did, it was certainly a shrewd decision, and it’s resulted in a string of superb collections. This season’s falls right into that category. Though the reliance on layered knits is toned down and streamlined, the mixed prints and unexpected silhouettes are still to be found. This collection is a bit of a departure, however, in that it’s colorful and bright. The gorgeous printed dresses and wide brim hats, plus the printed sandals, are some of the most satisfying clothes that have been seen all season. There really isn’t much to say, except that I’d go as far as to say this usurps Jil Sander as the best show of the season.
Marni dove in to the scuba trend that’s been developing for what seems like years now (I must take the opportunity to gloat that it was introduced by the victim of my near-stalking–Miuccia Prada), but it was well developed and unusual, just like any other Marni collection. When the focus wasn’t on tight colorblocked scuba-wear, things were hugging the body a lot less. There were coats with giant perforations on them, an abundance of mesh, and, for good measure, plenty of eye-popping prints. It was sort of all over the place, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing, but it wasn’t the most concise or convincing Marni collection in history.
Dolce & Gabbana
Maybe it was celebrating their 25th anniversary or reevaluating their approach in the midst of the recession, but Domencio and Stefano have really come into their own as of late. Sure, they have obviously been accomplished designers for the past 25 years, but their most recent collections have been self-aware and confident. They’ve begun showing long, epic collections that focus on their signatures with a few motifs for consideration. Gone are the days of themes and concepts. Instead, they’re taking inspiration from themselves. Whereas last season was all about prints, from polka dots to animal prints, this season was, unsurprisingly, all about white. It’s officially the color of the season, and if Domencio and Stefano didn’t decide that, exactly, they definitely solidified it. Every one of their signatures was turned white, from lacy dresses to bodysuits to sheer overlays. Black pieces occasionally punctuated the show, but they didn’t have much impact and seemed more like filler than anything else. All in all, if these new Dolce & Gabbana collections are perhaps not the most exciting for fashion people to analyze, they’re certain to kill in sales either way. These are pieces that will last in your closet for a long time to come, and with new motifs being explored every season, they’re sure to land on something for everybody.
When Donatella Versace decided to revive her pet project Versus a few years back, it made perfect sense for the moment. What we were experiencing then–a love of all things punk, 80’s, tough, and sexy–was the revival of all the things she had loved and incorporated into her work when she was designing for the label. So she reintroduced it with love, bringing in Christopher Kane as creative director and forming a personal relationship with him. He did her proud, too, for as long as the punk trend lasted. Last season was a nice segue; still devoutly punk, but with brighter colors and branched out ideas. But he couldn’t have done that same collection this season, because this time it wouldn’t make sense for the moment. Kane, to his credit, saw the end of the values that had been driving his work at Versus, and he did something about it. This season’s collection is only vaguely punk and 80’s, but it’s really a departure from those things altogether. Not to his credit, however, is that the collection is a little heavy. A reliance on plaid seems odd and inappropriate for a spring collection, especially this easy breezy spring. Better looks came when he mixed it up with florals and twisted bodices, but it was heavily reminiscent of what Rodarte has been doing for years now. The best looks were the final ones. The long, vertically striped skirts and florals mixed with bright solid colors promised a better, more attuned future for Versus. So maybe Donatella doesn’t have to pack away her labor of love just yet. If anyone can give new context to Versus, Kane can.
Thanks for reading! Come back tomorrow for the conclusion of Milan Fashion Week, with DSquared2, Roberto Cavalli, Iceberg, and Giorgio Armani.