Today in Fashion Week: February 25th
February 26, 2011 § Leave a comment
Howdy folks! Milan is progressing nicely, and before you know it we’ll be looking at the Paris shows. Until then, however, let’s see what Milan has to offer.
Starting with last season, Donatella Versace has been experimenting with reappropriating the heritage of her family’s brand. Last season she playfully spliced up the house’s logo, this season she worked with another traditional print. Her manipulation was much more straightforward this time around, however; she scaled the print so large that only the tiniest detail would cover an entire dress. Indeed, her delving in the archives has never exactly been direct. She seeks to modernize everything she reintroduces, and this collection was a prime example of that. A few looks were especially thrilling–a black and white coatdress comes to mind–but you get the impression Versace could have dug deeper. In spite of that, however, this was a pleasingly on-beat outing.
The uniform has been making waves this season, especially in Milan, and Moschino had the most direct inspiration yet. The models, in their impeccably cut suits and perfectly rounded hats looked like either bellhops or drivers with the utmost pride in their job. These are the service workers who polish their badges and shine their shoes every night. On the other end of the spectrum, when the girls were out of their constricting uniforms, there was a sort of free-flowing creativity to their clothes. It was surprisingly bold and well-executed, given that Moschino doesn’t necessarily have a reputation for making garments like that. Gold also made an impressive showing, especially since we haven’t really seen any this season.
An Etro show is what the person who coined the term “melting pot” had in mind. Veronica Etro borrows freely from any culture that strikes her fancy, and the results are a lovely collision. This season, however, the multicultural elements were less obvious, and instead a sort of bohemian spirit prevailed. Plaids were everywhere–they seem to be something of trend this season–as were oversized, relatively rugged coats. As usual, the mix was just right.
Alrighty then! Come back tomorrow for Bottega Veneta, Jil Sander, Roberto Cavalli, Emilio Pucci, & Moschino Cheap & Chic.