Ch-Ch-Ch-Changes

I’ll be the first to admit it;I’m a sucker for fast fashion. Quality concerns be damned–H&M is almost godsent in a vast mob of tasteless mall stores. So I’m always happy to see a chain store expand its horizons. After Gap became the new old place to shop this season, it looks like there’s another one hot on its heels. American Eagle, best known for providing khaki shorts and polo shirts to clean cut teens, gave a presentation of its forthcoming “spring break” collection recently. And I have to say, I’m reasonably impressed! They’re not quite replacing H&M and Gap, but as they say Rome wasn’t built in a day. Naturally I’m more impressed by the womenswear. It comes across as sort of a more attainable version of Topshop’s Bananarama-inspired show. But the menswear still looks pretty reminiscent of the old American Eagle. If they really want to woo me, they’ll step it up on that level. Here’s to the next season! To see some pictures, click








pictures from fromthedeskofphyllis.blogspot.com

Seasonal Wrap-Up:S/S 2009

Yes, It’s really over, but I thought before we continued with our normal posting I’d share some of my thoughts on the season overall. For starters, in a very broad sense it was far from great. A lot of the routine favorites underperformed this season. Blame it on the economy if you want, but I was bored by a lot of it. Save for Marc Jacobs, Lanvin, and (in my opinion) Prada, the greats weren’t in true form this season. But I’m not being a pessimist here, because I kind of thought it was a good thing! It made room for other designers to steal the spotlight. My favorite collections were, in no particular order: Stella McCartney, Emanuel Ungaro, Dries van Noten, Givenchy, Gucci, Pollini, Prada, Blumarine, Etro, Karen Walker, Marc Jacobs, Proenza Schouler, Gianfranco Ferre, Armand Basi One, Lanvin, Ann Demuelemeester, Veronique Branquinho, Max Mara, Dolce & Gabbana, Missoni, Blugirl, Topshop Unique, Luella, Todd Lynn, Ralph Lauren, Zac Posen, and Jason Wu, although I have a feeling I’m forgetting some from New York. All that aside, I loved these collections, and very few of them were one of the really “big” ones.
The main theme that I noticed this season was continuity.Designers embraced an “if it’s not broken, don’t fix it” mentality and decided to forgo drastic changes and instead modify their greatest hits. Sometimes it worked (see Lanvin) but other times it tasted a little sour the second time around (see Balmain.) Overall, I’m hoping the designers will take the hint next season and use Fall as a launching pad for new ideas.
On the model front, things weren’t as diverse as they were promised to be. Other than the predictable (Jourdan, Arlenis, Sessilee, and Lakshmi) there wasn’t a real influx of color. But I am glad to see that at least we started to see something new. There weren’t a ton of breakouts, but Imogen Morris-Clarke and Katie Fogarty were two who I plan to look out for in the future.
Now that this season is officially behind us, Meg and I will be returning to our previous, more diverse and sporadic posting. After doing this for almost a month I feel refreshed and I’m hoping to reinforce the fact that this is more than just a fashion blog, although fashion is obviously my topic of choice. I hope that anyone who started reading this for fashion week updates will keep coming back, and at the very least know that I am definitely planning to do this again with the Fall shows. See you around!

Today in Fashion Week:October 5th

Yes, everyone, today is the very last day of the Spring 2009 shows. I’m feeling introspective, so I’ll probably do a separate post later with my overall thoughts of the season, but for now the season has yet to be spoken for, because ironically some of my usual favorites land on the last day. So let’s get to them!

Lanvin

Season after season, Alber Elbaz has presented his collections for Lanvin as if he has something to prove. The intensity and severity at which he has defined his vision is rare and awe-inspiring. Because of this, he has developed a devoted following that is more and more impressed with each passing show. When a situation such as this occurs, inspirations and influences become irrelevant, and the only source in interpreting a collection is the past work of the designer. Last season, Alber showed an intense show that captured a dark chic that has stuck in the minds of all followers of fashion alike. This season was somewhat of a more commercial take on that look, but the pieces are still strong enough to stand on their own. This is essential to transferring a tone season to season, and is a place where many designers tend to stumble. Nice work, Alber!

To see Louis Vuitton and Miu Miu, click

Louis Vuitton

When Marc Jacobs is having a moment, it shows throughout his collections. Last season was not one of those times, and it was noticeable through his self-titled lines as well as his work for Louis Vuitton. This season he presented a stunning show for his main line, and I’m pretty sure Marc by Marc Jacobs was pretty good too;(It’s been a looong season.) By that standard, the Louis Vuitton show was also noteable this season. There was some sort of theme in there, (female warrior?) some point in history undoubtedly being referenced in a smart and witty way. It was a bright spot on the shows this season.

Miu Miu

Part of what I love about Miu Miu is that it’s not Miuccia trying to avoid reusing elements of Prada’s most recent show. There’s a noticeable trickle-down factor, with the asymmetric half-skirts present on the runway. But at the same time, it’s not a lesser version of Prada. It’s becoming more and more of a separate entity, with new motifs for Miuccia. This season the clothing was occasionally decorated with images of historical figures, something that’s been done before but was in desperate need of a retooling. I’m happy to say that the show did not dissapoint.

That’s it for the season! See you in February for Fall 2009!

Today in Fashion Week:October 4th

It’s the second to last day of this “week” of fashion, and yet things aren’t winding down!

Chloé

I loved Paulo Melim Andersson’s work with Chloe, so I was a little bummed when he was dismissed. I am willing to give Hannah McGibbon a chance, however. The collection was ok, nothing wholly impressive, but I expected a little more of a showing of what McGibbon is capable of. So far, I miss the old Chloe.

To see the rest, including Hermes and Wunderkind, click

Kenzo

Kenzo had a cool effect to it. Sort of an up swept look that reminds me of a burning hot day in the sun. The suits were the most impressive, but the dresses were cool in their own right.

Wunderkind

It sort of had that clashing patterns Marni feel to it. Overall, I was more impressed with the styling and detailing than the patterns and colors.

Collette Dinnigan

I usually love Collette Dinnigan’s stuff, and this season was no exception. It was all about Fine tuning dresses and bringing them close to perfection.

Hermès

Hermes was all about cowgirls and desert explorers. It seems to be a look that just doesn’t agree with me. It just looks dated, like a collection you vaguely remember from a few years ago.

Limi Feu

I thought Limi Feu was gorgeous. It’s just the kind of stuff you know would command attention on the street, in the best way possible.

John Galliano

I kept trying to figure out what was going on, but it seemed to be all over the place. It’s a shame because I think John Galliano is creative and capable of so much more.

That’s it! Tomorrow is a short yet extremely relevant day. Lanvin, Miu Miu, and Louis Vuitton! See you then!

Today in Fashion Week:October 3rd

The shows officially end in two days, and while it feels like forever ago that New York was kicking off, it’s starting to make me sad. Luckily, there are still a bunch of shows to get through, so without further ado…

Chanel
At a time when recession is on everyone’s lips, Chanel can rest easy. Buzzwords like “staples” “classics” and “timeless” might as well rhyme with Chanel. Nobody knows this better than Karl Lagerfeld, who has taken to simply updating the classics every season. This means that those of us looking for something new and different will have to find it elsewhere (the Chanel runway sets get more and more impressive, for a start) However, Chanel truly is ubiquitous in its appeal, so even the most die hard modernism fan can find their kicks somewhere. For me? The headpieces and the bags were certainly highlights!

To see the rest, including Alexander McQueen & Valentino, click

Requiem

Requim had that ironic elegance feel to it. Like, a young girl who embraces elegance in a way that is still hopelessly hip. Blair Waldorf comes to mind.

Valentino

Certainly the hottest gossip of the season is that of the fate of Alessandra Facchinetti. Now, WWD is reporting that it’s just about official. (However, Giambattista Valli will not be replacing her.) Last season was, in my opinion, a success from her. This season was much less of a spectacle. The clothes were pretty but didn’t have staying power. They were lackluster, and something with a little more of a kick to it would be more appropriate for the brand.

Rue du Mail

Rue du Mail was dark and downtown. Nothing new from them, but I liked the corset looks!

Alexander McQueen

After last season, Alexander McQueen set the bar pretty high, and I’m sorry to say; I think he failed to reach it. I respect him for not being uninspired, but I found myself flipping through waiting for the moment I “got it.” Sometimes I sort of did, but the successes were too far and few between.

Alright! Tomorrow brings Chloe and more!

Today in Fashion Week:October 2nd

Oh my! I’ve gotta crank this post out fast today! Luckily today is precise and poignant, rather than crazy and overbooked like the past few days!

Yves Saint Laurent

Stefano Pilati was obviously just not all that inspired this season. I did think that there were some nice wearable looks that will probably sell well.

To see the rest, including Stella McCartney and Giambattista Valli, click on the post title.

Sonia Rykiel

Sonia Rykiel is always the most fun. The models get to ham it up, and it definitely doesn’t hurt that the clothes hold their own either! Another great collection from her.

Viktor & Rolf

Viktor & Rolf did something a little different this season and went totally online with their show. Through the magic of the internet, they managed to make Shalom Harlow the sole model in their continuous e-runway show. Anyone interested in viewing that can go here. As for the clothes themselves? Not perfect, but definitely some keepers!

Stella McCartney

Gorgeous! It really captures a South Beach summer-type look. Definitely my favorite of the day so far!

Giambattista Valli

Giambattista Valli is rumored to be at the top of the list of potential replacements for Alessandra Facchinetti at Valentino. This is with good reason, as his clothes are so deeply embedded with a chic sense of style. This collection may just be the most compelling evidence of how perfect he’d be for the job. I’d say give Alessandra a few more chances, but definitely keep him in mind.

Celine

Pretty! I don’t have much else to say. Not a bad thing, just a hmmm thing.

Haider Ackermann

Very experimental with how clothes could fit on the body and new ways to show skin.

Today in Fashion Week:October 1st

OK, hey! There is a whole lot to go through once again!

Karl Lagerfeld

Karl Lagerfeld’s main line reminded me a little of Chanel’s most recent couture show. I have to say, nothing really stuck out like it did last season, except for a bag emblazoned with his face that reminded me of fake Karl’s cafepress collection.

To see the rest, including Givenchy and Costume National, click

Andrew Gn

Andrew Gn looked very outdated this season. Everything looked like something I’d seen before.

Akris

Akris is like a dark horse vying for attention in the midst of the craziness that is Paris fashion week. But with another solid collection, hopefully it’ll get the recognition it deserves.

Emanuel Ungaro

Last season Esteban Cortazar was criticized for relaunching Emanuel Ungaro without establishing a clear brand identity. This season should hush those critics. It was very Parisian it girl, possibly another one of my favorites!

Costume National

The crinkled fabric debuted at Prada is already showing up again! This time it’s at Costume National. Although I favor Prada’s take, Ennio Capasa did a pretty good job with it himself.

Dries Van Noten

Last season Dries Van Noten established itself as an it brand with a truly unique collection. This season is sure to expand upon that success. It’s becoming cliche from me, but this is yet another favorite!

Christian Lacroix

Christian Lacroix was artfully over-embellished this season, in a time when extravagance is so rare. What recession?

Givenchy

Givenchy is another one of the it shows. While it lacked the stunning graphic appeal of last season, there were some serious heavy hitters in there, and the dress above? Perfect!

Hussein Chalayan

Hussein Chalayan is always so stunningly modern. You can’t tell from the picture above, but the clothes all had the impression of being blown by wind from the side view.

That’s it niños! Tomorrow brings Stella McCartney, Yves Saint Laurent, Giambattista Valli, and more! Watching Pushing Daisies because it’s amazing!

Today in Fashion Week:September 30th

First things first, I’d like to commend Gossip Girl on their Fashion Week episode last night! There were a few nods to the fashion crowd that I noticed, so I was very pleased with what they did. Now, there are like a million shows today, so let’s get to that!

Balenciaga

Balenciaga was so boldly different this season that I cannot express admiration or disgust. I have a feeling that as I inevitably adjust to seeing this everywhere I will learn to love it.

To see the rest, including Junya Watanabe and Comme Des Garçons, click

Junya Watanabe

Junya Watanabe had an ethnic feel to it. You have to admire them for so boldly embracing the look they chose, but some of it just wasn’t working. The headpieces, however, were brilliant.

Issey Miyake

Issey Miyake was still stuck in sheer mode. Like I’ve said, I’m ready for a new trend already, but it was still a solid show.

Ann Demeulemeester

I think Ann Demuelemeester is another one of my favorites this season. She played with ruffles and draping for some seriously covetable items.

Comme Des Garçons

Oh my god! Cotton candy wigs? I’m interpreting this as a county fair gone zombie.

Jean Paul Gaultier

The show opened with a series of ballerina-like leotards. They were minimal but I got them. What followed was a series of subdued looks that leave me with a little more worry. Do we really want to live in a world where the conservative person in the office is wearing JPG?

Véronique Branquinho

Veronique Branquinho is fantastic at what she does, and whatever that is is extremely agreeable to me. The suits alone make this another one of my favorites.

Loewe

Loewe is in the process of reinvention under Stuart Vevers. This collection, shown on mannequins, is sure to help with brand identity. It was chic and approachable, but did not forget its Spanish roots, with ruffles shown throughout.

That’s it for today, but Karl Lagerfeld and Givenchy are only some of the highlights tomorrow.

Today in Fashion Week:September 29th

Bonjour! Today is a fashion week kinda day, judging by tonight’s episode of Gossip Girl, which will be prominently featuring Abigail Lorick’s Spring collection, as well as boasting cameos from Michael Kors, Nastia Liukin, and Tinsley Mortimer. Their filming was all over the news during NYFW, so let’s just try for authenticity, guys? Now that that’s out of the way, we can move on to the goings-on in Paris, where things are starting to heat up.

Christian Dior

Dior is, well, Dior, so it can never be bad necessarily. There will always be those who worship the collection, and those who have criticisms. I don’t have criticisms, but I’m not exactly worshiping it either. The hair and makeup seemed like an ill-fated attempt to top YSL last season, and the clothes were, for the most part, bland.

To see the rest, including Maison Martin Margiela and Vivienne Westwood, click

AF Vandevorst

Despite those highly questionably lips, AF Vandevorst was a classic collection that speaks true to the idea of “staples” being preached in every article about dressing in recession. Simple takes on black blazers and white shirts were shown with cut-out leggings that actually make me consider them again. Also, their rose printed lace, unabashedly old lady, shows the other side of the trend of the moment.

Undercover

From the first look I got a sort of Marilyn Monroe vibe that continued throughout. It had the classic Hollywood feel, but it was still so new, in the way that only Undercover can be.

Maison Martin Margiela

Amidst rumors that he’s hoping to break things off with fashion altogether, Maison Martin Margiela showed a collection that appeared to protest against clothing in general. From a fashion standpoint, there’s really nothing to judge, but visually it’s packed with the kind of brilliance only present in Margiela’s mind. Is this his way of transitioning into something artsier? Judging by the presentation, I hope so.

Vivienne Westwood

After going tribal last season, a somewhat subdued and all-around pretty chic collection was unexpected, but certainly not unwelcome. When designers can only rely on their quirkiness failure is bound to happen, so a show of skill is always a good thing. But don’t go thinking this wasn’t classic Westwood. There was still plenty of rock and roll cool to ogle.

Yohji Yamamoto

Yohji Yamamoto’s signature topsy-turvy deconstructed style was reinvented with a sleek edge for Spring. This is probably my favorite collection of his I’ve ever seen.

That’s all for today, but tomorrow is a pretty huge day with Balenciaga and Commes Des Garcons just part of the lineup!

Today in Fashion Week:September 28th

Bonjour readers! First things first, Je suis désolé. I know I promised a post yesterday, but there were only two shows and I’m lazy, mmkay? But never fret, I will be covering the shows from yesterday today! So go grab a croissant and let’s get started!

Gareth Pugh

Somewhere between Victorian and futuristic, Gareth Pugh reinforced his avant garde style with another collection that’s sure to be remembered.

To see the rest, including Balmain and Nina Ricci, click

Kris Van Assche

Kris Van Assche went for that sleek, menswear inspired look. It’s still effective, sure, but after a few seasons I’m ready for something new.

Anne Valerie Hash

Anne Valerie Hash wasn’t bold in that color or fabric choice. She put her skills to the test with intricate draping that made for some pretty nice party dresses.

Balmain

Christophe Decarnin did the smart thing and showed a sequel to his Fall collection. This means rock and roll edge with a super delicate fit. While some looks were still definitely strong, it wasn’t nearly as impressive as the last time. At some points it just got…tacky.

Bruno Pieters

I’ve been waiting all season to be able to categorize a show as all black and white. This is the one!

Rick Owens

Rick Owens was strikingly minimal, but the shapes were a little much. I can appreciate the off the beaten path approach, but there’s a fine line to looking ridiculous.

Nina Ricci

With delicate dresses over sheer tights, Nina Ricci had a graphic appeal that I can’t describe. I can definitely tell you that I like it, however.

That’s it for today, but come back tomorrow for Maison Martin Margiela, Dior, Vivienne Westwood, and more!