February 13, 2011 § Leave a comment
Hello again, fashion flocks! We’re only a couple days in, but we’ve already seen some significant showings. It’s quite impressive how so many young designers in New York have been able to turn their collections into must-see events. So long as inventive talents such as themselves are around, the industry will survive. Now, on to today’s offerings!
Thakoon, against all odds, actually seems to get better every season. This time around, he was inspired by both European and African royalty, which resulted in a collection that was alternatingly bold and regal, punk and ladylike. He showed prints both exotic and commonplace, traditional silhouettes in colorful buffalo plaid, and some very interestingly light takes on complicated constructions. He is an undersung talent in the industry, but something tells me he’ll be getting his due recognition soon enough.
September 13, 2010 § 2 Comments
Hello kittens! If you’re not completely burned out on fashion by now, then there’s plenty more to see.
At 10 AM, Derek Lam’s soundtrack of classical music and slow jams mixed with rain sound effects was a little too welcoming, but it served a point. It set the tone for what was, if not somber, a reflective and inquisitive show. He seemed to be making the point that Marc Jacobs did last season. The clothes had that same ordinariness to them–for example, a long-sleeved dress with full-length pleated skirt. There were a lot of pleats to be seen, and also a lot of longer skirts. This quieter approach aside, however, these were the exact sort of clothes Lam has established a following for. My favorite look–and I expect a favorite of a lot of editors as well–was a sleeveless trench with something of a bustle on the back. The collection was soft, but not overwhelmingly so. Without that moody soundtrack following them around, the pieces are adaptable and appealing to a wide variety of ages. « Read the rest of this entry »
February 17, 2010 § Leave a comment
It’s happened again! Fashion Week has gone by in the blink of an eye. After this we only have two more days left to cover. So let’s get into it!
The sisters Mulleavy revisited, as usual, the same types of intricate constructions that they’ve been known for from the start, but there was a lot of new material covered in this collection. The concept seemed to be a duel (or dual?) between two mismatched themes for our attention. On the one hand, an infusion of down home Mexican iconography like woven shawls and fringe, and on the other a subdued feminine streak. The two were fused, to varying levels of success, but there were a troubling number of befuddling looks. The best moments unsurprisingly came when they took a lighter hand to their heavy concept. Their exploration of lace and ruffles was delightful, because it was surprising coming from their tendency to celebrate the industrial. The collection was, unfortunately, not one of their best. But there’s gold betwixt the madness, and the Rodarte legacy lives on. « Read the rest of this entry »
September 14, 2009 § Leave a comment
Uy! Can you believe we’re already halfway done with New York Fashion Week? Of course, then we have London, Milan, and Paris…but we’re taking it one week at a time right now. Start your recovery with today’s shows:
Derek Lam, usually a master of restraint, went a little bit crazy this season. That’s not to say that his collection of vivid colors and punchy prints isn’t fun and alluring. But for someone whose founded his business on unfussy clothing easily adaptable into the “real” woman’s wardrobe, the thigh-grazing hemlines and flippant shapes are a little bold, to say the least. That’s fine, of course; there’s no problem in seeking a younger and more carefree clientele. But to risk alienating your core customer at a time like this? Full Show Here. « Read the rest of this entry »
February 18, 2009 § Leave a comment
I’m baaaaaaaaack! Did you scream? Be honest. Wasn’t yesterday fun? I was up until the very wee hours of the morning thinking about the Marc Jacobs
show. But I’ve said enough about that for now. We’ve got other deserving designers today who I’m sure will wow us.
Most designers would like you to delve into a collection having no idea what to expect. But with Rodarte, it isn’t so. The Mulleavy sisters are very succinct in making their season-to-season transition a precise evolution. Although pieces like the outrageous boots reminiscent of something found lying on the ground at a scrap yard are entirely new, you can always sense the lingering presence of their last collection. But what’s so interesting about this is that the same could be said of the last collection. Thus, after the immense appreciation they received for their Fall 2008 collection (which was a continuation of their Spring 2008 collection) they are still doing the same pieces, with the same ideas behind them. Except this time, it’s taken further, to another level. They find some clever concept to add to their repertoire, advancing the scale and source of their designs a little further. This season, it seems to be about a more primal, reptilian, scrap yard (as I said before) look. But still, the ethereal muse from seasons past can be spotted among the new components of her personality. In some ways, in a world where designers are barely the same people after six months, it’s comforting to know that 20 years from now the Mulleavy sisters could very well be showing the same webby knits we fell in love with in the first place. « Read the rest of this entry »