From London With Love

February 24, 2010 § Leave a comment

Apologies, apologies, apologies. It seems I didn’t have the heart to go through with the daily recap format for the London shows, but rest assured that I was feeling guiltier and guiltier every day I failed to meet this standing appointment. So, the Milan shows begin on Thursday, and while I’ve run into some free time I’ve decided to get us up to speed on what we’ve missed in London. Here goes!

Hakaan




Newcomer Hakaan took no time at all in being wholeheartedly embraced by the most discerning of the fashion elite. And it’s not hard to see why with razor sharp tailoring and luxe fur detailing. Definitely one to watch on the London scene, and a good bit of excitement to liven it up. « Read the rest of this entry »

What’s New Pussycat?

January 11, 2010 § Leave a comment

A look from the Lanvin Pre-Fall Presentation

Though the less rowdy of the fashion writing community attempt to avoid stereotype, there’s sometimes no choice but to resort to the old standby fierce. (This applies to anything coined or popularized by Tyra, when you think about it.) As much as I rack my overworked brain, I simply cannot find a better word to identify the Lanvin Pre-Fall show. Alber Elbaz’s relentlessly daring diva was taken to new lengths in the collection, and the results are something worth writing home for. Take, for instance, a fluid leopard jumpsuit with pajama-like tendencies. Seamlessly beautiful in the context of a staged presentation, but you’d better be lousy with je ne sais quoi if you plan on trying it out. That theme underlined the collection, that fragile perfection that takes a lot of audacity to pull off. Or, perhaps, there’s really no hope for anyone to achieve this look in person, if you subscribe to the theory of converging worlds of runway and reality. Either way, there’s nothing stopping you from celebrating Elbaz’s genius. I may only be speaking for myself, but here’s to a Fall show twice as bold!

Today in Fashion Week:October 1st & 2nd

October 3, 2009 § Leave a comment

Umm, hello. Whoopsy-daisy I’m late again. I uh, got run over by a bus? Let’s catch up.

Balenciaga




























Rather than bask in the glow of last season’s drastically different and fantastically pervasive collection, Nicolas Ghesquiere returned to what he knows best this Spring: futuristically-inclined streetwear. But it was no rehash. Rather than the more tired concepts he had been showing when he last worked under this theme, the look was quite forward this season. The fabrics had the modern edge he’s known for, the hooded vests will be ubiquitous in the magazine editorial world come next Spring, and the bodycon silhouette has never seemed so refined. Somehow Ghesquiere manages to repeat the same aesthetic without it becoming tiring. This season certainly keeps that tradition going. Full Show Here. « Read the rest of this entry »

Today in Fashion Week:September 27th

September 28, 2009 § Leave a comment

I’m back, dammit, and better than ever. This post is on time, my reviews are masterpieces, and I’ve had a lot of coffee. Everything is right in the TGTEF-universe. Let’s check in with Milan.

Marni






































Marni started out a little bit…interesting this season, with the brand’s signature quirkiness seemingly gone awry. The collection came together towards the middle, however, and the whole thing started to make sense. Consuelo Castiglioni seemed to have stripes the brain, which gradually evolved to a columnar motif throughout the collection. Awkwardly cut biker shorts, fashion’s new obsession, were shown devoid of their usual thigh-skimming effect, in a loose cut that will be difficult to tackle but legendary should it be achieved. All in all, it wasn’t one of Castiglioni’s stronger showings, but it’ll do. Full Show Here. « Read the rest of this entry »

Today in Fashion Week:September 24th & 25th

September 26, 2009 § 1 Comment

I sure chose a bad day to be late. The Milan shows kicked off yesterday and they’re crammed into a minuscule period of 5 days. Today is the second day, but I’ve also got the first (which includes Prada, freak out now) to get out of the way. So let’s waste no time!

Prada
































Ohhhhhhhhh Miuccia. I’m a well established devotee to her artistic wiles, which she certainly seems to be abound with. Every season, without fail, she delivers a collection that summons edicts of disappointment and bewilderment. And every season, inevitably, her collection is plastered across the magazines, the signature pieces repeated so often they become like dear friends to us. This season, she shied away from so of her more off-kilter pieces and offered a collection that seemed, dare I say it, accessible. Of course, accessible really only counts in fashion if you’re of model age and proportions. But (relatively) accessible it was. The look was, as mentioned, youthful, with takes on the suit shown with cut-off shorts, the kind done in dressier materials she invented at her men’s show this season. Also on the shorts front were Bermuda shorts, an inevitable return with the reemergence of biker shorts, which were also present in the collection. But perhaps more notable were the series of photo prints she showed on dresses and jackets alike. High-contrast beach scenes more colorful than a Bollywood film were juxtaposed against rigid, dull-colored fabrics. Elsewhere, Prada experimented with a sort of expensive-looking fishnet, draping it in ways that slyly exhibited the hard-earned Summer figure. All in all, it’ll stay on our minds all throughout the Spring season, but it won’t come to be known as one of her strongest moments. Of course, when your weakest is this strong… Full Show Here. « Read the rest of this entry »

Today in Fashion Week:September 22nd

September 23, 2009 § Leave a comment

Day…4 of London Fashion Week has come and gone, and here is a look at the disturbingly small handful of shows that took place today.

Burberry Prorsum



































Christopher Bailey seems to be enjoying Burberry’s heritage lately, moving the show back to London for LFW’s 25th anniversary, but it’s hard to tell from his Spring collection. Whereas Bailey has been astoundingly loyal to the brand’s roots, reinventing the trench coat every season as if it were the wheel, this season marked somewhat of a departure. The trench coat made a few cameos, in ruffly incarnations and converted into minidresses, but it was hardly the focal point as it has been in the past. Instead, Bailey had his eye on draping, playing with the fabric as much as he could on his bodycon canvases. There’s no lamentation if he wants to deviate a bit from his usual formula. But his choice of material in this collection is sort of odd. Under his direction, Burberry has become the epitome of cool whilst maintaining a relatively staid approach to dressing. The idea of showing such flashy pieces seems more than a little off from his typical outlook. Full Show Here.

« Read the rest of this entry »

Today in Fashion Week:September 21st

September 22, 2009 § Leave a comment

Hello everyone! First off, let me just apologize for my tardiness over the past few posts. London Fashion Week is really disorganized and it’s kind of time-consuming to make sense of it all.  So there’s a good chance I’ve missed out on some shows that are actually worth my time, but I’m doing my best here. Anyway, let’s get to yesterday’s shows.

Luella



















The things money will do to people. The r-word has infiltrated fashion much like the mucus creature in the Mucinex-DM commercials. Who knows if it’s entirely to blame, but Luella Bartley, she of the ostentatious frills, toned it down quite a bit this season. Not that that’s a disparaging remark; her streamlined effort retains her girly wiles yet fits much more nicely into the income-having woman’s wardrobe. But I fear if Bartley goes any further the apocalypse will surely ensue. Full Show Here. « Read the rest of this entry »

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