February 26, 2011 § Leave a comment
The truth is, no matter how much we strive for equity, we all play favorites. And so today, I’m taking to opportunity to cash in my favorite card. Yes, Prada holds a special place in my heart. It’s the one show I always look forward to, the collection I think back on fondly more often than any other, and in many ways the impetus and constant reinforcement of my love of fashion. I think Miuccia is a living legend whose work will be looked back on for centuries to come. And now, on to her offering for this season.
Last season, the Prada show started with a bang: a flash of fluorescent light followed by an exhilarating, colorful collection. This season started much more gently, by contrast. In an all white room, Miuccia started the collection out with a few classics. From there, the collection could’ve gone anywhere. There were snakeskin boots, aviator-like oversized sunglasses and caps, and somewhat boxy proportions. Perhaps those were just distractors, however; because it was actually those seemingly generic black coats that became a jumping-off point of sorts. Evidently, Miuccia was thinking about purity and innocence, as well as her all time favorite muse: the schoolgirl. But in case your knowledge of schoolgirls is heavily reliant on fetish porn, this show should provide a reality check. In actuality, schoolgirl uniforms are all about unflattering pleats, awkward shapes, and outdated plaids. Miuccia goes against the grain whenever possible, refusing to sexualize her clothes, and often settling for what is widely considered ugly. It’s easy to produce beautiful, unimaginative fashion; but she unequivocally says that’s not enough. Her off-kilter clashing combination of blown-up plaid in bright colors and two-tone snakeskin boots is one that leave most questioning what they think is beautiful clothing. Those looks were the real meat of the collection, the takeaway of the theme, but perhaps my favorite looks were the fur-covered ones. Fur detailing has been all over the place this season, but it takes something really out-there to stand out from the pack. Miuccia’s take was to have nondescript, plain-jane coats and dresses and then make them appear to literally sprout fur like a Chia Pet. Those looks were wacky but fascinatingly beautiful. For the final looks, Miuccia layered dull sequins together to make matted, blurry dresses. The effect was abstract and interesting, though it didn’t add much to the theme. All in all, the collection left you a lot to think about. It was a real statement in the “what is ugly?” category, and it’s sure to inspire intense debates in the days to come. « Read the rest of this entry »
September 23, 2010 § Leave a comment
Welcome, my friends, to a day of reckoning. As Fashion Month approaches its final stages, we’re in the midst of the collections that will shape our dreams and daydreams alike for the next few months. Today is a very important day in Milan, in my extremely biased opinion. Today, friends, is the day of PRADA.
Miuccia Prada started her show with a bang–a whoosh of light on her light-up runway–but you couldn’t really say the same for her collection. The first few looks had a lot to do with her most recent men’s show, with bold-colored riffs on scrubs and workwear and shoes with thick rainbow-striped soles. Those will look great in the group shots for her next ad campaign, but they obviously weren’t the real story. No, the real story came when those first subtle looks evolved into a cacophony of exuberant colorful stripes and monkey motifs. The best looks had to be the striped skirt suits worn with giant matching hats and the white dresses with explosions of color and pictures of monkeys and what looked like dancers with pineapples on their heads. Oh, in other news, Miuccia went bananas. There were banana printed shirts and skirts, plus bananas in combination with monkeys, but perhaps most buzzed of all were the banana earrings Miuccia wore to take her bow. The mood in fashion has been self-serious for a while now, but the message that a little humor never hurt anyone should be particularly effective coming from such a credible source.
February 26, 2010 § Leave a comment
Ciao! The shows have moved to Milan, and the daily recaps are back in action! We’re getting into the majorly heavy hitters now, so let’s get to it.
The latest fixation of the more benevolent of the fashion crowd has been the issue of size. Take, for instance, V Magazine’s recent Size Issue or Coco Rocha and Lara Stone’s attention-grabbing headlines. So, when Miuccia Prada seemed to be the latest (and most prominent) to jump on board by hiring curvier models (read:Victoria’s Secret), people took note. But her statement seemed to be much greater than the eerily exploitative efforts to date. She’s not highlighting size but rather downplaying it. Anyone, it seems to be the message, can look just as amazing as they want. The cuts were more forgiving, sure, but the looseness wasn’t overtly noticeable. What was noticeable, however, was her take on a seemingly intellectual, unabashedly and demurely dowdy erudite woman, which translated to nubby cable knit sweater-looks and 60’s era silhouettes on dresses. The Miuccia signatures were present throughout; she didn’t quite explore new territory as much as she summarized the best of her work in a cohesive and concise statement. If, admittedly, it isn’t quite revolutionary, the collection is definitely empowering. Beautiful, sustainable design for all is something we can all get behind. This show fits into the same genre as the instant classic Marc Jacobs show from just a few weeks back. Fashion, it seems, is where the heart is this season.
September 28, 2009 § Leave a comment
I should start off by saying that this post is a LIE. Just after I had put the finally-punctual post to bed last night, I found out that, of course, the schedule I was following failed to mention some shows. So we have two to get to that occurred yesterday, for those of you obsessed with the legitimacy of this here post.
Karl Lagerfeld was having a quieter moment at Fendi (so quiet he couldn’t bother to get himself on the schedule, ahem), meaning that it wasn’t nearly as strong as the past few seasons have been. The show wasn’t bad by any means, but it was a bit of a snoozer. Somewhere between the short pleated skirts and the sheerness I thought, wait, haven’t I seen this before? Yes, yes I have, and it’s called Spring 2008. Full Show Here.
Originally, Versus was established as a project for a young Donatella Versace to nourish her flair for design with. Needless to say, her work at the label did not go unnoticed, and her subservient designs earned her the top spot at Versace. Now that the ’80s are back and better than ever, Donatella decided to relaunch the brand so dear to her heart, signing on another relatively unknown designer, Christopher Kane. Kane made his debut with the line last season with a small collection of accessories, shoes and clutches and the like accessorized with hard rock details. This season’s ready to wear collection didn’t stray much from that formula. The cuts are just as youthful and revealing as we’d expect, the accents, lace and safety pins being the standouts, don’t offer much originality. Though Kane is certainly working with a look here, the question arises: what does Versus have to offer that isn’t already out there? Being aware of Kane’s potential, it’s hard to write off this reincarnation just yet. But had it have been a completely unknown designer, there may be some trouble right about now. Full Show Here.
Ok, that about wraps up our time in Milan. Join us on Wednesday for the start of the Paris shows, including Anne Valerie Hash, Limi Feu, Rochas, Gareth Pugh, and Rue Du Mail! Oh and Happy Yom Kippur!!
March 3, 2009 § Leave a comment
Hello! I didn’t realize it before, but it looks like today will be the last day I cover in Milan. Time flies, doesn’t it? Oh well, trust me, we have plenty of shows to get to today. And then it’s off to Paris!
Dolce & Gabbana
Although it was similar in theme to their last dramatic and decadent collection, Dolce & Gabbana hit a few sour notes with their fall shows. Certainly there are pieces, such as tuxedos with dramatic shoulders, that are intrinsically Dolce and perfectly lovable given the chance, but checked print and Marilyn Monroe screenprinting brings the phrase “Dolce & Gabbana for Hot Topic” to mind. With such a scary thought, it’s hard not to run away as fast as possible.