March 9, 2010 § Leave a comment
Hello all! This should hopefully, if everything goes according to plan, be the last mega-update before we get back to the daily, punctual posts. So let’s get through these shows, for the love of god.
In a season where pretty and feminine are again becoming buzzwords, Alber Elbaz didn’t seem to be on board. Perhaps it was just the ubiquitous black wigs that nearly obscured the models’ identities playing tricks on us, but there seemed to be a dark streak to the girl he designed for this season. The techniques he’s built a reputation on, like Grecian drapery and bias cut, were largely eschewed in favor of more masculine tailoring and more constrictive fits. No matter, because when a show’s good it’s good. His glitzier side of things this time around had tribal underpinnings, with dresses that focused more on intricate feather detailing than fit. All in all, it was his strongest effort in a few seasons, which is saying a lot. How is it that someone can always be so right? The world will never know.
March 6, 2010 § Leave a comment
You can all breathe a sigh of relief. The Paris shows are upon us, and though I’m fashionably late in getting to them, I have finally been fashionably motivated to do so. I know I literally say this everyday, but we have a TON of shows to look at today. For your viewing pleasure:
Nicolas Ghesquiere was in an experimental mood at Balenciaga this season–as if he ever isn’t. But there was something particularly playful and bold about the offering this time around. Perhaps it was the boxy silhouettes or the headline-splotched pieces (something that could never, ever work outside the context of a Balenciaga show), but the mood was certainly electric and jubilant. There seemed to be an utter disregard for the current standard of beauty. The shapes weren’t dowdy but rather mechanical and robotic in a way. Though they did defy the standard of bodycon, they didn’t seem prudish or directly responsive to it. The show was very much aesthetically connected to last season’s collection, but it was taken to another level. Basics, though incredibly hard to find, were given out-of-this-world dosages of avant garde pep. All in all, it was a thought provoking and immensely interesting show. « Read the rest of this entry »
March 4, 2010 § Leave a comment
Hello again! We’ve got the last day of Milan Fashion Week to get through, and it’s going out with a bang! There’s a lot to see before we can move on to Paris, so let’s get to it.
Where, oh where, would Marni be without a mainstream to defy? Though occasionally ugly for ugly’s sake, Marni was much more in touch with what an off-kilter girl wants this season than the last. The optical prints, very mod in a way, added a nice dose of whimsy that will resonate greatly with customers. Quietly charming and well done. « Read the rest of this entry »
February 28, 2010 § Leave a comment
Ok, ok. I missed a day. Actually, two days, if you count the fact that I am writing this in the wee hours of February 28th. But, then again, I’m my own worst critic. Let’s catch up.
Last season, Donatella Versace interrupted the progress of her collection with an endeavor that, though well received by some, I felt did not live up to the success of her previous collection. That collection, the Fall 2009 effort, was a masterful showing of modern graphic sophistication with edge. This season’s turn is more logically connected to that show than the one shown for Spring, with its strong fusion of minimalism and modernity. No one does sexy like Versace does, but I think it’s a collection like this that shows that there’s more to the brand than that. Because, after all, a woman needs more in her toolkit than weapons of mass seduction. Every now and then, pants seem like an appropriate choice. « Read the rest of this entry »
February 26, 2010 § Leave a comment
Ciao! The shows have moved to Milan, and the daily recaps are back in action! We’re getting into the majorly heavy hitters now, so let’s get to it.
The latest fixation of the more benevolent of the fashion crowd has been the issue of size. Take, for instance, V Magazine’s recent Size Issue or Coco Rocha and Lara Stone’s attention-grabbing headlines. So, when Miuccia Prada seemed to be the latest (and most prominent) to jump on board by hiring curvier models (read:Victoria’s Secret), people took note. But her statement seemed to be much greater than the eerily exploitative efforts to date. She’s not highlighting size but rather downplaying it. Anyone, it seems to be the message, can look just as amazing as they want. The cuts were more forgiving, sure, but the looseness wasn’t overtly noticeable. What was noticeable, however, was her take on a seemingly intellectual, unabashedly and demurely dowdy erudite woman, which translated to nubby cable knit sweater-looks and 60’s era silhouettes on dresses. The Miuccia signatures were present throughout; she didn’t quite explore new territory as much as she summarized the best of her work in a cohesive and concise statement. If, admittedly, it isn’t quite revolutionary, the collection is definitely empowering. Beautiful, sustainable design for all is something we can all get behind. This show fits into the same genre as the instant classic Marc Jacobs show from just a few weeks back. Fashion, it seems, is where the heart is this season.
February 24, 2010 § Leave a comment
Apologies, apologies, apologies. It seems I didn’t have the heart to go through with the daily recap format for the London shows, but rest assured that I was feeling guiltier and guiltier every day I failed to meet this standing appointment. So, the Milan shows begin on Thursday, and while I’ve run into some free time I’ve decided to get us up to speed on what we’ve missed in London. Here goes!
Newcomer Hakaan took no time at all in being wholeheartedly embraced by the most discerning of the fashion elite. And it’s not hard to see why with razor sharp tailoring and luxe fur detailing. Definitely one to watch on the London scene, and a good bit of excitement to liven it up. « Read the rest of this entry »
February 20, 2010 § Leave a comment
You know that feeling when you’ve put something off for so long that the thought of doing it at all seems impossible? Yeah, me neither. Thursday’s post is just a weeeeee bit late today, as life comes at you fast (Thursday) and I’ve been busy looking through the Prada archives (yesterday). Luckily London hosted less than a stellar lineup yesterday, so we’ve only got the one day to catch up on. And it just so happens that it’s the last of New York. Let’s get it over with to it!
Remember that whole neogrunge movement I noticed starting on the first day of the week? Well, with the blessing of Ralph Lauren, it appears to be totally and unequivocally on. The look was so faithful at times that it was like something directly out of 1990. This had some questionable side effects, but Ralph’s modern interpretations made it worth the lesser bits and pieces. One think that’s unmistakable is his reference. The look came out in floor length summery floral dresses layered over long knits, bulky sweaters paired with skirts (floor length again, of course), heavy velvets, and full length men’s coats. Grunge, baby, grunge. It’s not surprising that designers have chosen this as fodder given the circumstances, but nevertheless I’m looking to the development of this look. « Read the rest of this entry »