February 21, 2011 § Leave a comment
Well, everyone, we’re back, and the season has now taken us to London. London can often be a city that surprises us, where new designers are likely to make surprisingly accomplished efforts, and where we can always rely on a little bit of good old fashion wit and humor. Perhaps the best advice when looking through the London shows is to keep an open mind. British designers have a rare quality to them, and it may be just what you’re looking for.
Jonathan Saunders’ clothes have an almost doll-like playfulness to them. That’s not to say that they’re not practical; they’d have a place in many closets, but he simply doesn’t register as a “real women” commercial designer. He seems to have somewhat of an obsession with perfection when it comes to the fit and ideology behind his designs. It’s a no-hair-out-of-place philosophy, but it isn’t exactly intimidating, either. Perhaps Saunders finds looser, untamed silhouettes too messy; indeed, some of those indecisive hemlines and oversized cuts can often look like they need a designer’s attention, and not that they’ve had one’s. His aesthetic isn’t “short and tight,” necessarily, but it is body conscious, without being the sort of futuristic “bodycon” we’ve come to know in recent years. This season’s effort seemed like a natural progression from spring’s terrific collection, including some pieces that were lifted and shown in different colors and styled differently, including a belted blazer with sort of rounded, tapered sleeves. Jewel tones made an impression, especially pretty emerald greens. When he got past the basics, Saunders showed some colorful prints that seemed to have tropical underpinnings; perhaps the Prada effect is going to come more into play in the bolder European shows. All in all, it was a decisive, skilled lineup, which is somewhat refreshing after seeing a lot of nondescript, relatively bland collections in New York. Sure, we’re talking apples and oranges here, but London can always be counted on for a burst of vibrancy after a bleak New York season. « Read the rest of this entry »
September 21, 2010 § 2 Comments
Say it ain’t so! Did someone change the clocks, or is today really the last day of London Fashion Week? Some fashion weeks really get the short stick (it’s historically been Milan, but they’ve fought their way into more time), but I guess it was quality over quantity at LFW this time around. And there has been a lot of quality to be seen. There are some great shows to see today as well, so let’s get to them!
Christopher Bailey has been gradually moving away from the Burberry signatures for some time now, transforming its “classic” reputation into something more current and exciting. It started with his collection of draped trenches and miniskirts a few seasons back, then last season’s rugged outing that produced well-publicized shearling jackets, among other things. And now here we are, perhaps embarking on a new chapter for the brand. This collection didn’t have the same utilitarian spirit as last season’s; rather it was almost the opposite. It was urban, and more importantly, sleek. Any trenches or similarly classic pieces were transformed, recreated with studs or colorblocking. The rest of the collection consisted of Bailey’s own, more recently developed signatures like frilly but edgy party dresses and leather everything. At times these elements, studs and leather and skin-tight pants, seemed too anchored in the past that we’re trying to get away from. If he wants to do something more current and less classic, then he’d be wise to be more forward-thinking. His better moments were just that: punchy-colored t-shirt dresses and bright belts paired with neutral jackets. It wasn’t terrible and didn’t scream dated, but it was all in all a safe if solid offering. « Read the rest of this entry »
February 24, 2010 § Leave a comment
Apologies, apologies, apologies. It seems I didn’t have the heart to go through with the daily recap format for the London shows, but rest assured that I was feeling guiltier and guiltier every day I failed to meet this standing appointment. So, the Milan shows begin on Thursday, and while I’ve run into some free time I’ve decided to get us up to speed on what we’ve missed in London. Here goes!
Newcomer Hakaan took no time at all in being wholeheartedly embraced by the most discerning of the fashion elite. And it’s not hard to see why with razor sharp tailoring and luxe fur detailing. Definitely one to watch on the London scene, and a good bit of excitement to liven it up. « Read the rest of this entry »
September 23, 2009 § Leave a comment
Day…4 of London Fashion Week has come and gone, and here is a look at the disturbingly small handful of shows that took place today.
Christopher Bailey seems to be enjoying Burberry’s heritage lately, moving the show back to London for LFW’s 25th anniversary, but it’s hard to tell from his Spring collection. Whereas Bailey has been astoundingly loyal to the brand’s roots, reinventing the trench coat every season as if it were the wheel, this season marked somewhat of a departure. The trench coat made a few cameos, in ruffly incarnations and converted into minidresses, but it was hardly the focal point as it has been in the past. Instead, Bailey had his eye on draping, playing with the fabric as much as he could on his bodycon canvases. There’s no lamentation if he wants to deviate a bit from his usual formula. But his choice of material in this collection is sort of odd. Under his direction, Burberry has become the epitome of cool whilst maintaining a relatively staid approach to dressing. The idea of showing such flashy pieces seems more than a little off from his typical outlook. Full Show Here.
February 16, 2009 § Leave a comment
Surprise! I’m coming at ya a little earlier today because I figured posting shows two days late is worse than posting them the next morning. So, we only have three remaining from yesterday until I get cracking on today’s post. Shall we?
Y-3’s sporty style took a more fashion forward turn this time around. Yohji Yamamoto infused some of his unique avant garde style into the label, but still kept the brand’s roots in athletics intact. Except, this time, the hints at athleticism are kept subtle. There are nods to equestrians, but nothing is ever outright. It’s a great step into a new identity for the increasingly hip brand.