February 23, 2011 § 1 Comment
Hi there! Unfortunately, we’re going to have to make this short today, but there are only a few shows to get through to finish off the season in London.
Mary Katrantzou had a breakthrough last season with her architecture-inspired collection of wearable art, which won the adoration of critics across the world. Perhaps she didn’t see it as as much of a turning point as everyone else did, however, because she didn’t exactly proceed from there this season. Instead the collection began with some riffs on print explosion–geometric prints worn with busy floral tights, for instance. Gradually, she brought some of the prints from last season’s collection back, and that was by far the highlight of the lineup. That being said, however, this was far from a worthy follow-up to that last brilliant collection. Katrantzou had quickly gained fame the good old fashion way: with pure talent and ingenuity. But she didn’t make good on the promise of that collection this time around, and for that reason her showing was quite a disappointment. « Read the rest of this entry »
February 21, 2011 § Leave a comment
And we’re back! I’ve finally caught up with the shows and now I’m ready to see what London holds. Of course, London only gets a few measly days to show all they have to offer, so it can get a little packed, as it seems to be today. Oh well, I suppose, let’s get to it!
Christopher Bailey has been highly regarded for transforming Burberry into a modern brand, appealing to the young women of today with his own brand of essentials. Last season, however, he was heavily criticized for sticking to that aesthetic a little too hard. As his outlook became a bit outdated, he somewhat stubbornly stuck to motorcycle jackets and minidresses. Well, it was a lesson learned, it appears. He seems to have realized that perhaps the best way to move his Burberry into the future is to look to the past. This season had a very dressy, 60’s air about it, from the matchy-matchy accessories to the curvy, womanly shapes. Bailey was sly, however. He stuck to his signatures, like military jackets and trenches, making slight tweaks to fit the theme of the show. All in all, it was far more invigorated and exciting than last season’s limp effort, and it dealt with its perhaps cliched inspiration in a fresh and unique way. « Read the rest of this entry »
February 21, 2011 § Leave a comment
Well, everyone, we’re back, and the season has now taken us to London. London can often be a city that surprises us, where new designers are likely to make surprisingly accomplished efforts, and where we can always rely on a little bit of good old fashion wit and humor. Perhaps the best advice when looking through the London shows is to keep an open mind. British designers have a rare quality to them, and it may be just what you’re looking for.
Jonathan Saunders’ clothes have an almost doll-like playfulness to them. That’s not to say that they’re not practical; they’d have a place in many closets, but he simply doesn’t register as a “real women” commercial designer. He seems to have somewhat of an obsession with perfection when it comes to the fit and ideology behind his designs. It’s a no-hair-out-of-place philosophy, but it isn’t exactly intimidating, either. Perhaps Saunders finds looser, untamed silhouettes too messy; indeed, some of those indecisive hemlines and oversized cuts can often look like they need a designer’s attention, and not that they’ve had one’s. His aesthetic isn’t “short and tight,” necessarily, but it is body conscious, without being the sort of futuristic “bodycon” we’ve come to know in recent years. This season’s effort seemed like a natural progression from spring’s terrific collection, including some pieces that were lifted and shown in different colors and styled differently, including a belted blazer with sort of rounded, tapered sleeves. Jewel tones made an impression, especially pretty emerald greens. When he got past the basics, Saunders showed some colorful prints that seemed to have tropical underpinnings; perhaps the Prada effect is going to come more into play in the bolder European shows. All in all, it was a decisive, skilled lineup, which is somewhat refreshing after seeing a lot of nondescript, relatively bland collections in New York. Sure, we’re talking apples and oranges here, but London can always be counted on for a burst of vibrancy after a bleak New York season. « Read the rest of this entry »
February 24, 2010 § Leave a comment
Apologies, apologies, apologies. It seems I didn’t have the heart to go through with the daily recap format for the London shows, but rest assured that I was feeling guiltier and guiltier every day I failed to meet this standing appointment. So, the Milan shows begin on Thursday, and while I’ve run into some free time I’ve decided to get us up to speed on what we’ve missed in London. Here goes!
Newcomer Hakaan took no time at all in being wholeheartedly embraced by the most discerning of the fashion elite. And it’s not hard to see why with razor sharp tailoring and luxe fur detailing. Definitely one to watch on the London scene, and a good bit of excitement to liven it up. « Read the rest of this entry »
September 23, 2009 § Leave a comment
Day…4 of London Fashion Week has come and gone, and here is a look at the disturbingly small handful of shows that took place today.
Christopher Bailey seems to be enjoying Burberry’s heritage lately, moving the show back to London for LFW’s 25th anniversary, but it’s hard to tell from his Spring collection. Whereas Bailey has been astoundingly loyal to the brand’s roots, reinventing the trench coat every season as if it were the wheel, this season marked somewhat of a departure. The trench coat made a few cameos, in ruffly incarnations and converted into minidresses, but it was hardly the focal point as it has been in the past. Instead, Bailey had his eye on draping, playing with the fabric as much as he could on his bodycon canvases. There’s no lamentation if he wants to deviate a bit from his usual formula. But his choice of material in this collection is sort of odd. Under his direction, Burberry has become the epitome of cool whilst maintaining a relatively staid approach to dressing. The idea of showing such flashy pieces seems more than a little off from his typical outlook. Full Show Here.
September 22, 2009 § Leave a comment
Hello everyone! First off, let me just apologize for my tardiness over the past few posts. London Fashion Week is really disorganized and it’s kind of time-consuming to make sense of it all. So there’s a good chance I’ve missed out on some shows that are actually worth my time, but I’m doing my best here. Anyway, let’s get to yesterday’s shows.
The things money will do to people. The r-word has infiltrated fashion much like the mucus creature in the Mucinex-DM commercials. Who knows if it’s entirely to blame, but Luella Bartley, she of the ostentatious frills, toned it down quite a bit this season. Not that that’s a disparaging remark; her streamlined effort retains her girly wiles yet fits much more nicely into the income-having woman’s wardrobe. But I fear if Bartley goes any further the apocalypse will surely ensue. Full Show Here. « Read the rest of this entry »
September 21, 2009 § 1 Comment
We’ve reached Day 2 of London Fashion Week! Already the buzz is that the London designers are doing quite well for themselves this season. See for yourselves:
Jasmine di Milo
Jasmine di Milo’s Spring collection was full of contradictions. The cuts said sexy, but the pallet screamed demure. Di Milo is, by some miracle, a little known designer. But given that she consistently delivers solid collections, one hopes she’ll receive a little more recognition. Full Show Here. « Read the rest of this entry »