February 26, 2011 § Leave a comment
The truth is, no matter how much we strive for equity, we all play favorites. And so today, I’m taking to opportunity to cash in my favorite card. Yes, Prada holds a special place in my heart. It’s the one show I always look forward to, the collection I think back on fondly more often than any other, and in many ways the impetus and constant reinforcement of my love of fashion. I think Miuccia is a living legend whose work will be looked back on for centuries to come. And now, on to her offering for this season.
Last season, the Prada show started with a bang: a flash of fluorescent light followed by an exhilarating, colorful collection. This season started much more gently, by contrast. In an all white room, Miuccia started the collection out with a few classics. From there, the collection could’ve gone anywhere. There were snakeskin boots, aviator-like oversized sunglasses and caps, and somewhat boxy proportions. Perhaps those were just distractors, however; because it was actually those seemingly generic black coats that became a jumping-off point of sorts. Evidently, Miuccia was thinking about purity and innocence, as well as her all time favorite muse: the schoolgirl. But in case your knowledge of schoolgirls is heavily reliant on fetish porn, this show should provide a reality check. In actuality, schoolgirl uniforms are all about unflattering pleats, awkward shapes, and outdated plaids. Miuccia goes against the grain whenever possible, refusing to sexualize her clothes, and often settling for what is widely considered ugly. It’s easy to produce beautiful, unimaginative fashion; but she unequivocally says that’s not enough. Her off-kilter clashing combination of blown-up plaid in bright colors and two-tone snakeskin boots is one that leave most questioning what they think is beautiful clothing. Those looks were the real meat of the collection, the takeaway of the theme, but perhaps my favorite looks were the fur-covered ones. Fur detailing has been all over the place this season, but it takes something really out-there to stand out from the pack. Miuccia’s take was to have nondescript, plain-jane coats and dresses and then make them appear to literally sprout fur like a Chia Pet. Those looks were wacky but fascinatingly beautiful. For the final looks, Miuccia layered dull sequins together to make matted, blurry dresses. The effect was abstract and interesting, though it didn’t add much to the theme. All in all, the collection left you a lot to think about. It was a real statement in the “what is ugly?” category, and it’s sure to inspire intense debates in the days to come. « Read the rest of this entry »
February 23, 2011 § 1 Comment
On to another city! We have only two shows to look at today, but think of it as a pallete cleanser. Tomorrow is a very special day. Yes, people, tomorrow is Prada. I know I’m fasting and praying to Miuccia like there’s no tomorrow. But hopefully there is a tomorrow, because that’s the day of the show. We are all not worthy. We are all not worthy. We are…
Frida Giannini has not been the most celebrated designer at Gucci in history, and that is not exactly unjust. Her work has never been very polarizing or idiosyncratic. She has never led a movement. She’s a perfectly capable designer, but she’s not inspiring revolutions. One thing to her credit, however, is that she’s the queen of the 70’s reference. Seriously, she’s been exploring the 70’s as a source of inspiration for years now. Now that they’ve finally come back into fashion, it seems she’s not squandering the opportunity to bask in her favorite decade. Her clothes had a lot of commonality with those of Marc Jacobs last season. It had the same dressy-casual feel to it, and the same loose but luxurious sentiment. Particularly beautiful were a couple of coats toward the middle. It was that point where you stop scrutinizing and start simply taking a show in. The pace got derailed a bit with some ill-advised largely sheer evening gowns, but those solid looks more than made up for it. All in all, it was Giannini’s best effort at the house in memory, and possibly one of the best of the season so far. « Read the rest of this entry »
March 4, 2010 § Leave a comment
Hello again! We’ve got the last day of Milan Fashion Week to get through, and it’s going out with a bang! There’s a lot to see before we can move on to Paris, so let’s get to it.
Where, oh where, would Marni be without a mainstream to defy? Though occasionally ugly for ugly’s sake, Marni was much more in touch with what an off-kilter girl wants this season than the last. The optical prints, very mod in a way, added a nice dose of whimsy that will resonate greatly with customers. Quietly charming and well done. « Read the rest of this entry »
February 28, 2010 § Leave a comment
Ok, ok. I missed a day. Actually, two days, if you count the fact that I am writing this in the wee hours of February 28th. But, then again, I’m my own worst critic. Let’s catch up.
Last season, Donatella Versace interrupted the progress of her collection with an endeavor that, though well received by some, I felt did not live up to the success of her previous collection. That collection, the Fall 2009 effort, was a masterful showing of modern graphic sophistication with edge. This season’s turn is more logically connected to that show than the one shown for Spring, with its strong fusion of minimalism and modernity. No one does sexy like Versace does, but I think it’s a collection like this that shows that there’s more to the brand than that. Because, after all, a woman needs more in her toolkit than weapons of mass seduction. Every now and then, pants seem like an appropriate choice. « Read the rest of this entry »
February 26, 2010 § Leave a comment
Ciao! The shows have moved to Milan, and the daily recaps are back in action! We’re getting into the majorly heavy hitters now, so let’s get to it.
The latest fixation of the more benevolent of the fashion crowd has been the issue of size. Take, for instance, V Magazine’s recent Size Issue or Coco Rocha and Lara Stone’s attention-grabbing headlines. So, when Miuccia Prada seemed to be the latest (and most prominent) to jump on board by hiring curvier models (read:Victoria’s Secret), people took note. But her statement seemed to be much greater than the eerily exploitative efforts to date. She’s not highlighting size but rather downplaying it. Anyone, it seems to be the message, can look just as amazing as they want. The cuts were more forgiving, sure, but the looseness wasn’t overtly noticeable. What was noticeable, however, was her take on a seemingly intellectual, unabashedly and demurely dowdy erudite woman, which translated to nubby cable knit sweater-looks and 60’s era silhouettes on dresses. The Miuccia signatures were present throughout; she didn’t quite explore new territory as much as she summarized the best of her work in a cohesive and concise statement. If, admittedly, it isn’t quite revolutionary, the collection is definitely empowering. Beautiful, sustainable design for all is something we can all get behind. This show fits into the same genre as the instant classic Marc Jacobs show from just a few weeks back. Fashion, it seems, is where the heart is this season.
September 28, 2009 § Leave a comment
I should start off by saying that this post is a LIE. Just after I had put the finally-punctual post to bed last night, I found out that, of course, the schedule I was following failed to mention some shows. So we have two to get to that occurred yesterday, for those of you obsessed with the legitimacy of this here post.
Karl Lagerfeld was having a quieter moment at Fendi (so quiet he couldn’t bother to get himself on the schedule, ahem), meaning that it wasn’t nearly as strong as the past few seasons have been. The show wasn’t bad by any means, but it was a bit of a snoozer. Somewhere between the short pleated skirts and the sheerness I thought, wait, haven’t I seen this before? Yes, yes I have, and it’s called Spring 2008. Full Show Here.
Originally, Versus was established as a project for a young Donatella Versace to nourish her flair for design with. Needless to say, her work at the label did not go unnoticed, and her subservient designs earned her the top spot at Versace. Now that the ’80s are back and better than ever, Donatella decided to relaunch the brand so dear to her heart, signing on another relatively unknown designer, Christopher Kane. Kane made his debut with the line last season with a small collection of accessories, shoes and clutches and the like accessorized with hard rock details. This season’s ready to wear collection didn’t stray much from that formula. The cuts are just as youthful and revealing as we’d expect, the accents, lace and safety pins being the standouts, don’t offer much originality. Though Kane is certainly working with a look here, the question arises: what does Versus have to offer that isn’t already out there? Being aware of Kane’s potential, it’s hard to write off this reincarnation just yet. But had it have been a completely unknown designer, there may be some trouble right about now. Full Show Here.
Ok, that about wraps up our time in Milan. Join us on Wednesday for the start of the Paris shows, including Anne Valerie Hash, Limi Feu, Rochas, Gareth Pugh, and Rue Du Mail! Oh and Happy Yom Kippur!!
September 28, 2009 § Leave a comment
I’m back, dammit, and better than ever. This post is on time, my reviews are masterpieces, and I’ve had a lot of coffee. Everything is right in the TGTEF-universe. Let’s check in with Milan.
Marni started out a little bit…interesting this season, with the brand’s signature quirkiness seemingly gone awry. The collection came together towards the middle, however, and the whole thing started to make sense. Consuelo Castiglioni seemed to have stripes the brain, which gradually evolved to a columnar motif throughout the collection. Awkwardly cut biker shorts, fashion’s new obsession, were shown devoid of their usual thigh-skimming effect, in a loose cut that will be difficult to tackle but legendary should it be achieved. All in all, it wasn’t one of Castiglioni’s stronger showings, but it’ll do. Full Show Here. « Read the rest of this entry »