September 21, 2010 § 2 Comments
Say it ain’t so! Did someone change the clocks, or is today really the last day of London Fashion Week? Some fashion weeks really get the short stick (it’s historically been Milan, but they’ve fought their way into more time), but I guess it was quality over quantity at LFW this time around. And there has been a lot of quality to be seen. There are some great shows to see today as well, so let’s get to them!
Christopher Bailey has been gradually moving away from the Burberry signatures for some time now, transforming its “classic” reputation into something more current and exciting. It started with his collection of draped trenches and miniskirts a few seasons back, then last season’s rugged outing that produced well-publicized shearling jackets, among other things. And now here we are, perhaps embarking on a new chapter for the brand. This collection didn’t have the same utilitarian spirit as last season’s; rather it was almost the opposite. It was urban, and more importantly, sleek. Any trenches or similarly classic pieces were transformed, recreated with studs or colorblocking. The rest of the collection consisted of Bailey’s own, more recently developed signatures like frilly but edgy party dresses and leather everything. At times these elements, studs and leather and skin-tight pants, seemed too anchored in the past that we’re trying to get away from. If he wants to do something more current and less classic, then he’d be wise to be more forward-thinking. His better moments were just that: punchy-colored t-shirt dresses and bright belts paired with neutral jackets. It wasn’t terrible and didn’t scream dated, but it was all in all a safe if solid offering. « Read the rest of this entry »
November 8, 2009 § Leave a comment
We took a bit of a sojourn, a sabbatical if you will, but our return is inevitable. So rest easily, little imaginary sycophants, there’ll be more pretty pictures on the way.
September 13, 2009 § Leave a comment
Ready, set, go! It’s day 4 (notice how I’m sticking to the unofficial timeline) of New York Fashion Week, which means we’re in the midst of some of the season’s most crucial collections. Take a deep breath, cause we’ve got a LOT to cover.
Christophe Lemaire seemed to be exploring Lacoste’s tennis roots for a brief amount of time, but he wisely strayed from the concept to veer into a more drapey, blue and white focus with ’40s references thrown in for good measure. With the fun, punchy dresses Lemaire’s come to be known for accentuated by headwraps and more masculine separates, he produced one of his most relevant offerings in a good while. Cute. Full (Women’s) Show Here.
February 20, 2009 § Leave a comment
Can you believe it? Today is already the second-to-last day of New York Fashion Week! Tomorrow is the last day and already the semi-official first day of London Fashion Week. However, we do still have business to take care of.
Narciso fever aside, Francisco Costa for Calvin Klein is hands down my favorite minimalist. His designs have continued to raise the bar without turning too many heads. With the economy, many designers have been forced to forgo their decadent ways, but Costa must be thoroughly unfazed. He’s able to work with the most basic of materials to create the most interesting designs. This season, he stuck to an all black (ok, some silver) pallet, developing his looks by manipulating silhouette and doing some serious tailoring. All that aside, this collection is just not as good as what he’s done in previous seasons. Maybe the economy affects everyone after all.
February 19, 2009 § Leave a comment
My my, yesterday seemed like a busy day, but I really have no idea what I’m getting myself into today! Yours truly (I think I’m gonna pretend to be Andre Leon Talley for the remainder of Fashion Month. Life With Andre makes me giggle uncontrollably.) has some favorites today, so perhaps it’ll be a little easier to get through.
In a season where designers are striving to be bankable, Michael Kors took a tongue-in-cheek approach to redefining the classics. Trends of the moment like the strong shoulders soon to be everywhere made appearances, but the collection was decidedly restrained. Those “staples” like the trench coat, investment-worthy skirt suit, and little black dress were sure to be found. But gimmicks like a detached lapel (admittedly effective) were worked into the pieces lest they be called boring.
There’s more if you « Read the rest of this entry »
February 18, 2009 § Leave a comment
I’m baaaaaaaaack! Did you scream? Be honest. Wasn’t yesterday fun? I was up until the very wee hours of the morning thinking about the Marc Jacobs
show. But I’ve said enough about that for now. We’ve got other deserving designers today who I’m sure will wow us.
Most designers would like you to delve into a collection having no idea what to expect. But with Rodarte, it isn’t so. The Mulleavy sisters are very succinct in making their season-to-season transition a precise evolution. Although pieces like the outrageous boots reminiscent of something found lying on the ground at a scrap yard are entirely new, you can always sense the lingering presence of their last collection. But what’s so interesting about this is that the same could be said of the last collection. Thus, after the immense appreciation they received for their Fall 2008 collection (which was a continuation of their Spring 2008 collection) they are still doing the same pieces, with the same ideas behind them. Except this time, it’s taken further, to another level. They find some clever concept to add to their repertoire, advancing the scale and source of their designs a little further. This season, it seems to be about a more primal, reptilian, scrap yard (as I said before) look. But still, the ethereal muse from seasons past can be spotted among the new components of her personality. In some ways, in a world where designers are barely the same people after six months, it’s comforting to know that 20 years from now the Mulleavy sisters could very well be showing the same webby knits we fell in love with in the first place. « Read the rest of this entry »
February 17, 2009 § Leave a comment
Hey again! For your information, I am now thoroughly caffeinated, so let’s see some FASHION!!!!!!!!!!
(click on an image to make it bigger–sorry, but there were too many to resize them manually)
As if the 80’s weren’t back enough, Marc Jacobs spread the love a little a lot more. With 6o+ individual models all with unique hairstyles, Jacobs was hardly intent on writing the season off, as all the press about his budget cuts has suggested. Instead, he presented the perfect antidote to the troubling times. He recalled the extravagance and opulence of the 80’s, a very different brand from what we’ve come to know recently. In the 80’s, people went the extra mile with their individualism, expressing themselves through big hair-dos, bright colors, and extreme silhouettes, instead of “bling bling” as far as the eye can see. Jacobs playfully brought back this attitude with neon pieces and extreme glamour a-plenty. The thing about fashion recently is that it’s been dark, grim. But just when you think everybody’s doing it, you can always count on Marc Jacobs to level the playing field. Maybe his optimism will signal an actual retooling of the industry. Because a can of hairspray is a heck of a lot cheaper than a diamond necklace.
There’s more, more, more if you click, click, click « Read the rest of this entry »