February 20, 2011 § Leave a comment
Ok, I’ll admit it. I got a little burnt out on fashion towards the middle of this week. I have no idea how it happened. Maybe it was the stress of the other myriad responsibilities I face as an average, society-dwelling human, or maybe I just suddenly hate fashion. All I know is, confronted with the possibility of deferring my daily recap a day, I watched a live stream of Proenza Schouler and felt nothing. I genuinely considered whether or not I had somehow damaged my frontal lobe. But I’m back, ready to make use of the short gap between New York and London. This is going to be a less thorough recap than I’d probably do if I were going through each day individually, but I’ll try to give fair breakdowns of the essential shows before I move on to London.
If you were slightly confused by Proenza Schouler this season, you’re not alone. Those prints seemed to dominate the collection, but what were they? Were they tech-inspired pixels, or traditional “heritage” patterns? Well, it’s both, evidently. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez began their conceptualization for the collection with some Native American blankets they collected, but they didn’t stop there. Part of what makes them such interesting, modern designers is that they never take the obvious route. They manipulated those patterns digitally to the point that they became saturated, striking designs. And, with their re-envisioned take on classic silhouettes as a backdrop, it made for one of the most interesting, accomplished outings to come out of New York this season.
September 16, 2010 § 1 Comment
Hello dears! Long time no see. If you are faint of heart, I suggest you be seated now. Ok, now that that’s out of the way. Today is the second to last day of New York Fashion Week. We’ve had some laughs, some tears, some cheers, some jeers, some highs, some lows, some scores, some blows. Shall I go on? Now, I’ll try to avoid getting sentimental (I’m lying–I’m clearly bawling while I type this) as we get to today’s shows.
Proenza Schouler: The Remix? That’s what it looked like at their latest show, which seemed to feature highlights from their short but illustrious career so far. There were hints of the pseudo-conservative girl they shot to fame with, the billowy technique inspired by paper airplanes they once employed, the techno surf chick they were much lauded for, and last season’s subversive prepster. All rolled into one, you ask? Well, yeah, essentially.
Take, for instance, the brightly-colored sheer dresses with ruffles and stripes. Or the deconstructed ladies who lunch element in a skintight acid yellow sweater and a tweed-like skirt. The references to their past work are almost too many to count. If this all sounds like a bit of a mess, it both was and wasn’t. Jack and Lazaro played the experimental game this season, which is obviously fraught with potential mistakes. But when they were on to something, they really were. As for favorites? I particularly liked a coral pink suede coat in the beginning, in addition to some similar styles, as well as a pink short-sleeved striped sweater dress. It was electric in its best parts, with bright colors and authentically deconstructed elements. Their fabrics had that element of unseen newness to them, which is a very good sign. It may have been mishmash of their past work, but Jack and Lazaro seem to be looking back in order to move forward. « Read the rest of this entry »
February 18, 2010 § Leave a comment
As the last few days of New York Fashion Week run their course, slowly but surely the must-see shows are dwindling down. We’ve seen some interesting statements and definitely some shows that I think are instant classics. I’ll reflect more at the end of the week, but for now I’ll just say that I think this has been one of the most consistently impressive seasons in a while. I especially love the initiative many of the major designers are taking in streaming their shows live on the web. With their help, every show will soon be broadcast, moving fashion forward into the future. It’s been a major development this season, and I think a lot of it can be attributed to Alexander McQueen’s web broadcast extravaganza last season. He truly was an innovative and directional thinker. On that note, let’s get into today’s shows!
The basis of Proenza Schouler this season seemed to be a schoolgirl. That explains the pleated skirts, leather button down collars attached to minidresses, and thigh high stockings. There definitely was a feminine undercurrent, but there was also a heavy dose of the sort of acidic tomboy they’ve been working with for the past few seasons. The melding of the two archetypes was a major theme throughout, but it wasn’t so obvious that it was a gimmick. It came up in the pretty dresses layered over long sleeved tees and the menswear tailoring that was added to more traditionally feminine pieces. In a way, it was evocative of their first few seasons, but brought up to speed with their developments ever since. I liked the accordion pleats, a sure sign that the softening of the look was conscientious this season. Altogether, it created a strong look, and one that influential cool girls will be sure to flock to now that they’re likely tired of the dominatrix look. « Read the rest of this entry »
September 17, 2009 § Leave a comment
Ello little buggers! It’s the second-to-last day of New York Fashion Week, and the stage is set for the last few shows. Fashion folk may be focused on their overseas roundtrip tickets already, but there’s still plenty to see here in the colonies.
Jack McCullough and Lazaro Hernandez, masters of understanding what current generation looks for in clothing, rarely make a false move. Though their playfulness, once evidenced with nods to the gritty ’80s and militaristic touches, seems to have all but gone out the window with their last collection, they’ve gained a certain ability to create pieces that amazing transcend all personal tastes and unify the fashion front. This season, it was all about dark blues, slouchy blazers with rounded padded shoulders, and tie-dyes and other prints displayed immaculately on dresses that bordered on divine. Full Show Here.
February 20, 2009 § Leave a comment
Can you believe it? Today is already the second-to-last day of New York Fashion Week! Tomorrow is the last day and already the semi-official first day of London Fashion Week. However, we do still have business to take care of.
Narciso fever aside, Francisco Costa for Calvin Klein is hands down my favorite minimalist. His designs have continued to raise the bar without turning too many heads. With the economy, many designers have been forced to forgo their decadent ways, but Costa must be thoroughly unfazed. He’s able to work with the most basic of materials to create the most interesting designs. This season, he stuck to an all black (ok, some silver) pallet, developing his looks by manipulating silhouette and doing some serious tailoring. All that aside, this collection is just not as good as what he’s done in previous seasons. Maybe the economy affects everyone after all.