February 21, 2011 § Leave a comment
And we’re back! I’ve finally caught up with the shows and now I’m ready to see what London holds. Of course, London only gets a few measly days to show all they have to offer, so it can get a little packed, as it seems to be today. Oh well, I suppose, let’s get to it!
Christopher Bailey has been highly regarded for transforming Burberry into a modern brand, appealing to the young women of today with his own brand of essentials. Last season, however, he was heavily criticized for sticking to that aesthetic a little too hard. As his outlook became a bit outdated, he somewhat stubbornly stuck to motorcycle jackets and minidresses. Well, it was a lesson learned, it appears. He seems to have realized that perhaps the best way to move his Burberry into the future is to look to the past. This season had a very dressy, 60’s air about it, from the matchy-matchy accessories to the curvy, womanly shapes. Bailey was sly, however. He stuck to his signatures, like military jackets and trenches, making slight tweaks to fit the theme of the show. All in all, it was far more invigorated and exciting than last season’s limp effort, and it dealt with its perhaps cliched inspiration in a fresh and unique way. « Read the rest of this entry »
October 6, 2010 § 1 Comment
Well, it’s practically been a marathon, but I’ve miraculously caught up with the shows. And so my punctuality collide with this season’s swan song. It’s been a surprisingly fruitful and directional season, and we’ll get to talking about it more when I do my big old wrap-up post sometime in the next week or so. But that’ll be my last fashion week post until next season. It’s Meg’s turn to takeover the blog! On to those last shows, then!
What better way to close out Fashion Month than with another morsel from the mind of Miuccia Prada? The answer: there is none. If you were a fan of the electric colors and exaggerated silhouettes from the Prada show this season, then you’ll be in to Miu Miu. The best looks were the ones in the beginning: boldly colored and graphically colorblocked knee-length long-sleeved pleated dresses. Those will be everywhere, mark my words. There were also some great jackets with flowery prints on them and wide dropped shoulders. On some dresses were prints that looked like Japanese woodblocks, with flowers and swans and waves on them. All in all, it was a fantastically bold collection, and certainly one of the best of the season. Miuccia saves the best for last, and the world keeps on spinning.
October 6, 2010 § Leave a comment
Just one more post to get through before I move on to today’s final shows. Let’s proceed!
Poor Sarah Burton went from being Alexander McQueen’s right hand woman to having the most difficult task possible in the fashion world dumped on her plate: preserving McQueen’s legacy in the wake of his death. In her first ready to wear collection as the newly-instated creative director, however, she showed she’s had some practice. Luckily, she’s been paying attention all these years, and she demonstrated extensive knowledge of the late designer’s techniques and signatures. The collection was gilded and heavenly, somewhat like the one Burton finished for McQueen last season. But it also wasn’t about museum-quality clothes or couture finishes, like that one was. Burton showed that she plans on exploring the wearable side of the line. The clothes lived up to the hype, and were a fitting starting point for the new chapter of the brand. But they were respectful clothes that mostly worked within the archives. McQueen was a constantly innovative and experimental designer, one who never showed the same thing twice. One hopes Burton will be more explorative as she settles into her new role. « Read the rest of this entry »
October 5, 2010 § Leave a comment
Late, late, late! If I’m gonna finish on time tomorrow as the season wraps up, we’d better make this short.
Yves Saint Laurent
Stefano Pilati has had his fair share of ups and downs at Yves Saint Laurent, but he hit his stride this season with a collection that showcased impeccable design on simple garments. There were unconventional details and blasts from both Piliati’s and Saint Laurent’s pasts, and it all made for a pleasing and riveting line-up. « Read the rest of this entry »
October 4, 2010 § Leave a comment
Ello mates! Yes, I do realize that would’ve fit better for London Fashion Week; No, I do not care. Anyway, those late shows I had to get to. Let’s hope I get caught up soon.
Phoebe Philo created the moment; now she just has to roll with it. The softer, minimal runways this season have all been stamped with her signatures. It isn’t hard to change fashion, but it’s still says something when someone singlehandedly does it. This season, however, even she was a decibel lower. Instead of the sharp, minimal looks of her first two collections for Celine, she showed loose, dreamy separates, paired to an overall relaxed and simplistic effect. Save for some successful experiments with bits of graphic print, it was a quiet, modest showing. There was something almost Islamic about a long white tunic worn over loose trousers, and that about says it all. We are all one in Philo’s vision of the world, and Celine is Mecca. « Read the rest of this entry »
October 3, 2010 § 2 Comments
Fashion Month is winding down, and this season is almost spoken for. Of course, fashion can always surprise you, so never say never. Maybe something today will shake things up?
Comme des Garcons
Rei Kawakubo seemed to be thinking of pairings this season, most evidently in the pairs of models she sent down wearing the same exact clothes. But the pieces themselves carried some of these notions of pairs, in black and white colorblocked pieces that called to mind the yin & the yang. There was also something about the contrast of the dark, seductive black pieces in leather with cone bras and waist-defining belts versus the loose, carefree white pieces in soft, washed-looking fabrics. So maybe this collection was about the yin & yang. Every woman needs a little bit of dominatrix and a little bit of puritan in her wardrobe. It’s all about the balance.
October 2, 2010 § Leave a comment
Take it all in, folks! It’s October. Smell the crisp air, hear the leaves fall, admire the subtle beauty of the foliage, and then get the HALE back here for today’s shows! The Paris collections have been disappointing so far, but there’s always hope for that to turn around. Maybe it’ll happen today?
Alber Elbaz has always been one for draping and loose fits, but apparently going with the grain wasn’t working for him this season. Instead, as most designers are rediscovering the joys of letting your clothes breathe, he found it more intriguing to go bodycon. At times there was a duality; a mixture of draped details over a skintight base, but the look was definitively sleek. Obviously Alber can’t do anything without adding his signature elegant touch, so his short and tight dresses never looked vulgar, but they also weren’t much fun. What’s made his vision of Lanvin so exciting has been the glamour and fantasy of it, encapsulated in a practical cocktail-wear shell. This season, nothing really took your breath away, unless you were trying to shove in to one of the tighter dresses. « Read the rest of this entry »