October 6, 2010 § 1 Comment
Well, it’s practically been a marathon, but I’ve miraculously caught up with the shows. And so my punctuality collide with this season’s swan song. It’s been a surprisingly fruitful and directional season, and we’ll get to talking about it more when I do my big old wrap-up post sometime in the next week or so. But that’ll be my last fashion week post until next season. It’s Meg’s turn to takeover the blog! On to those last shows, then!
What better way to close out Fashion Month than with another morsel from the mind of Miuccia Prada? The answer: there is none. If you were a fan of the electric colors and exaggerated silhouettes from the Prada show this season, then you’ll be in to Miu Miu. The best looks were the ones in the beginning: boldly colored and graphically colorblocked knee-length long-sleeved pleated dresses. Those will be everywhere, mark my words. There were also some great jackets with flowery prints on them and wide dropped shoulders. On some dresses were prints that looked like Japanese woodblocks, with flowers and swans and waves on them. All in all, it was a fantastically bold collection, and certainly one of the best of the season. Miuccia saves the best for last, and the world keeps on spinning.
October 5, 2010 § Leave a comment
Late, late, late! If I’m gonna finish on time tomorrow as the season wraps up, we’d better make this short.
Yves Saint Laurent
Stefano Pilati has had his fair share of ups and downs at Yves Saint Laurent, but he hit his stride this season with a collection that showcased impeccable design on simple garments. There were unconventional details and blasts from both Piliati’s and Saint Laurent’s pasts, and it all made for a pleasing and riveting line-up. « Read the rest of this entry »
October 4, 2010 § Leave a comment
Ello mates! Yes, I do realize that would’ve fit better for London Fashion Week; No, I do not care. Anyway, those late shows I had to get to. Let’s hope I get caught up soon.
Phoebe Philo created the moment; now she just has to roll with it. The softer, minimal runways this season have all been stamped with her signatures. It isn’t hard to change fashion, but it’s still says something when someone singlehandedly does it. This season, however, even she was a decibel lower. Instead of the sharp, minimal looks of her first two collections for Celine, she showed loose, dreamy separates, paired to an overall relaxed and simplistic effect. Save for some successful experiments with bits of graphic print, it was a quiet, modest showing. There was something almost Islamic about a long white tunic worn over loose trousers, and that about says it all. We are all one in Philo’s vision of the world, and Celine is Mecca. « Read the rest of this entry »
October 3, 2010 § 2 Comments
Fashion Month is winding down, and this season is almost spoken for. Of course, fashion can always surprise you, so never say never. Maybe something today will shake things up?
Comme des Garcons
Rei Kawakubo seemed to be thinking of pairings this season, most evidently in the pairs of models she sent down wearing the same exact clothes. But the pieces themselves carried some of these notions of pairs, in black and white colorblocked pieces that called to mind the yin & the yang. There was also something about the contrast of the dark, seductive black pieces in leather with cone bras and waist-defining belts versus the loose, carefree white pieces in soft, washed-looking fabrics. So maybe this collection was about the yin & yang. Every woman needs a little bit of dominatrix and a little bit of puritan in her wardrobe. It’s all about the balance.
October 2, 2010 § Leave a comment
Take it all in, folks! It’s October. Smell the crisp air, hear the leaves fall, admire the subtle beauty of the foliage, and then get the HALE back here for today’s shows! The Paris collections have been disappointing so far, but there’s always hope for that to turn around. Maybe it’ll happen today?
Alber Elbaz has always been one for draping and loose fits, but apparently going with the grain wasn’t working for him this season. Instead, as most designers are rediscovering the joys of letting your clothes breathe, he found it more intriguing to go bodycon. At times there was a duality; a mixture of draped details over a skintight base, but the look was definitively sleek. Obviously Alber can’t do anything without adding his signature elegant touch, so his short and tight dresses never looked vulgar, but they also weren’t much fun. What’s made his vision of Lanvin so exciting has been the glamour and fantasy of it, encapsulated in a practical cocktail-wear shell. This season, nothing really took your breath away, unless you were trying to shove in to one of the tighter dresses. « Read the rest of this entry »
September 30, 2010 § 1 Comment
Hello hello hello my dears! While I’m on this hot streak of punctuality, I’m gonna get right to the shows instead of spending valuable time on a fancy introduction. On with it, then!
Balenciaga: taking it to the streets. You never know where Nicolas Ghesquiere is going to take things, given his wide breadth of references, but you can always expect him to take it somewhere definitively. This time, he was feeling punky, which translated to houndstooth, leather, and models wearing sneakers. That describes the opening looks, at least, but they didn’t strike a chord. As the show progressed, Ghesquiere lightened his approach, and the results were more favorable. The most appealing looks suggested real individuality, rather than the constructed cliche of “punk.” Particularly successful were some menswear suiting looks and a paneled cardigan worn with a contrast polka dot shirt. This was not a bad collection, but it also wasn’t a great one. The street punk thing, now done to death, was a rare bad turn for Ghesquiere. It was no coincidence that when he deviated from that concept a bit the results were winning. « Read the rest of this entry »
September 28, 2010 § Leave a comment
Hello once again! Sorry for the delay in posts lately, but today is a day off from fashion month so we’ll be caught up once we get through the final shows from Milan. On to those then!
A mainstay designer is only as good as his or her signatures, and signatures Roberto Cavalli certainly has. It doesn’t take much brainstorming; fringe, snakeskin, lace-up pants. In short: a recipe for disaster. If anyone else were to build a collection, let alone a career, out of these elements, they’d be out of luck. But in Cavalli’s able & experienced hands, they can often defy their less-than-ideal connotations. This season, his signatures were front and center, but he wisely made each look a mishmash of all of them instead of highlighting them separately. Maybe the overabundance of things to process made it less visually offensive, but the combination was almost otherworldly in its overdetailed glory. Cavalli is not the most tasteful of designers, but he knows who he is, and he is undeniably skilled at communicating that. He might not change things up very often, but he always manages to make enough subtle tweaks that his collections fit in with the rest of the season, even if they’re perhaps not memorable as standouts. « Read the rest of this entry »