February 20, 2011 § Leave a comment
Ok, I’ll admit it. I got a little burnt out on fashion towards the middle of this week. I have no idea how it happened. Maybe it was the stress of the other myriad responsibilities I face as an average, society-dwelling human, or maybe I just suddenly hate fashion. All I know is, confronted with the possibility of deferring my daily recap a day, I watched a live stream of Proenza Schouler and felt nothing. I genuinely considered whether or not I had somehow damaged my frontal lobe. But I’m back, ready to make use of the short gap between New York and London. This is going to be a less thorough recap than I’d probably do if I were going through each day individually, but I’ll try to give fair breakdowns of the essential shows before I move on to London.
If you were slightly confused by Proenza Schouler this season, you’re not alone. Those prints seemed to dominate the collection, but what were they? Were they tech-inspired pixels, or traditional “heritage” patterns? Well, it’s both, evidently. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez began their conceptualization for the collection with some Native American blankets they collected, but they didn’t stop there. Part of what makes them such interesting, modern designers is that they never take the obvious route. They manipulated those patterns digitally to the point that they became saturated, striking designs. And, with their re-envisioned take on classic silhouettes as a backdrop, it made for one of the most interesting, accomplished outings to come out of New York this season.
September 15, 2010 § 1 Comment
It always goes by faster than you expect, but believe it or not, we’ve made it to the last few days of Fashion Week. Of course, fashion is ever-evolving, so it’s not over till the fat lady sings. And she hasn’t yet, so let’s get to today’s installments.
Maybe the Mulleavys are a little scrapped for cash right now–considering that their MAC collaboration’s been canceled–or maybe they just wanted a new challenge. Either way, their latest collection was pared down, and the oft-dreaded other C word was batted around town.
Commercial (there, I said it) isn’t as much of an insult as people think it seems to be, but it’s not exactly up Rodarte’s alley. They’ve made their name with intricate, high-concept collections where wearability is always in question. That formula hasn’t stopped working for them, but it’s been a while since they’ve had a real knockout collection, like their first few. This season’s collection may not be a knockout, but it is exciting, a well-executed and realistically avant garde approach to dressing. There are elements of 60’s, perhaps, in its overt girlishness. Perhaps they had friend and collaborator Tavi Gevinson in mind, who has a penchant for the type of barrettes they put in the models’ hair. Whatever the case, it was a satisfying collection and an exciting change of direction for the Mulleavys, who are usually one-track types of girls. « Read the rest of this entry »
February 13, 2010 § Leave a comment
In the realm of fashion, two very different stories are playing out. One, a tragedy that has permeated the culture; and the other, a jubilant celebration of young talents. New York, in any scheme, is a place where undiscovered talents come to blossom. And that’s always been an underlying theme to the collections that are shown during Fashion Week. The discovery of a new young talent is tremendously exciting and continues to drive the forces of change in fashion. So far, the week has been devoid of disappointment, which is a promising sign for what’s to come. The other story, meanwhile, continues to show the true colors of the fashion world. Despite its reputation for being cold and catty, beneath the surface its always been about celebrating idiosyncrasy and talent. We’ve lost a true artist in the field, but the upside is that his work is reaching a new and larger audience. He may rest in peace, but the fruits of his career will hopefully not do the same.
Evidently moving on from the heavy dose of femininity that has characterized past efforts, Jason Wu packed his runway with looks that were at times downright androgynous. The overall look was noticeably more hip and everyday oriented than past collections. But his new sense of aesthetic at times evoked Marni too closely for comfort, a reminder of how green of a designer he actually is. Despite this, it was a confident turn from him, a sign that he is perhaps growing accustomed to his sudden spike in popularity. He didn’t abandon his roots altogether, however; he closed the show with a series of stunning if slightly quirky evening dresses (if dresses are still able to be classified as such in modern times). All in all, it was a good development of his past work into something newer and more practical. « Read the rest of this entry »
September 12, 2009 § Leave a comment
Despite what feels like an inappropriate title to today’s post, I welcome you nonetheless. Can you believe we’re already 2/3 days into Fashion Week? Time flies when you’re…doing something. Either way, we’ve still got shows-a-plenty to cover here. And that’s a statement you can take to the bank.
Brian Wolk and Claude Morais of Ruffian, usually fans of a bold concept, didn’t quite seem to know what to do this season. There were stabs at a Picasso reference with a print that comes off as 80’s in a bad way, nods to military with double breasted dresses and jackets, and a bevy of annoyingly indecisive dotted prints. It’s hard to say what they had in mind, furthermore what stopped them from producing the type of work they’re known for, but when only faced with the results I can’t say much more than that it’s not their best–by a longshot. Full Show Here.
February 17, 2009 § Leave a comment
Hey again! For your information, I am now thoroughly caffeinated, so let’s see some FASHION!!!!!!!!!!
(click on an image to make it bigger–sorry, but there were too many to resize them manually)
As if the 80’s weren’t back enough, Marc Jacobs spread the love a little a lot more. With 6o+ individual models all with unique hairstyles, Jacobs was hardly intent on writing the season off, as all the press about his budget cuts has suggested. Instead, he presented the perfect antidote to the troubling times. He recalled the extravagance and opulence of the 80’s, a very different brand from what we’ve come to know recently. In the 80’s, people went the extra mile with their individualism, expressing themselves through big hair-dos, bright colors, and extreme silhouettes, instead of “bling bling” as far as the eye can see. Jacobs playfully brought back this attitude with neon pieces and extreme glamour a-plenty. The thing about fashion recently is that it’s been dark, grim. But just when you think everybody’s doing it, you can always count on Marc Jacobs to level the playing field. Maybe his optimism will signal an actual retooling of the industry. Because a can of hairspray is a heck of a lot cheaper than a diamond necklace.
There’s more, more, more if you click, click, click « Read the rest of this entry »
February 14, 2009 § Leave a comment
Day 2! Today we have a whole bunch of shows to get to, especially since they kept on coming at me yesterday and I instead found sleep to be the most viable option. In that regard, I guess we’ll get to them!
Get this through your head now: I love Yigal Azrouel. Even through a truncated, toned-down show, you couldn’t stop his undeniable talent from shining through. The looks are less directional than his Spring outing, but he manages to do “the now” just as superbly. Collectively, the show makes up more of a wardrobe than a theme, but themes are overrated anyway. Azrouel is very likely to be one of New York’s next major designers. (Full show here)