September 30, 2010 § 1 Comment
Hello hello hello my dears! While I’m on this hot streak of punctuality, I’m gonna get right to the shows instead of spending valuable time on a fancy introduction. On with it, then!
Balenciaga: taking it to the streets. You never know where Nicolas Ghesquiere is going to take things, given his wide breadth of references, but you can always expect him to take it somewhere definitively. This time, he was feeling punky, which translated to houndstooth, leather, and models wearing sneakers. That describes the opening looks, at least, but they didn’t strike a chord. As the show progressed, Ghesquiere lightened his approach, and the results were more favorable. The most appealing looks suggested real individuality, rather than the constructed cliche of “punk.” Particularly successful were some menswear suiting looks and a paneled cardigan worn with a contrast polka dot shirt. This was not a bad collection, but it also wasn’t a great one. The street punk thing, now done to death, was a rare bad turn for Ghesquiere. It was no coincidence that when he deviated from that concept a bit the results were winning. « Read the rest of this entry »
February 16, 2010 § Leave a comment
There’s something about Fashion Week and my internet connection that just don’t agree. I spent the weekend in a semi-depression over my disconnection from the world. Anyway, my internet’s back, but I fear I can’t possibly make up what I’ve missed. I did, however, look over the shows from Saturday and Sunday, and here’s what I thought, in a nutshell. Ohne Titel was great, and I loved the mesh pieces. Prabal Gurung and Altuzarra both turned out amazing collections, but I preferred Gurung’s for it’s practicality and envisioned a future for him as the Marc Jacobs of the next generation. Alexander Wang stepped up his game and experimented with suiting in a way that I felt was evocative of Miuccia Prada’s approach to design. He had some iffy moments, but I thought it was a job well done. Irina Shabayeva deserves a mention; she’s one of the most talented Project Runway winners, I think, and her collection was very luxe for a debut. I loved DKNY, as I always do, but I thought it was an especially good season. Herve Leger was surprisingly inventive, for a brand not really known for that. Y-3 was great, and it revived some of the grunge aspects that were peeking through at the beginning of the week. But I think by far my favorite collection over the weekend was Thakoon. I especially liked the prints and the fur hoods. The look was very strong, and the collection was an amazing achievement from him. So that’s it, as far as quick reactions. I’m incredibly remorseful that I can’t give all of those designers proper write-ups, but I really was impressed with all of the collections I saw. It’s going to be a good season, I think. It’s not over yet, so let’s get to today’s shows.
Pinch me. Marc Jacobs’ latest collection plays out like a dream sequence. Jacobs’ approach is often to take the ordinary and paint it in a new light. That was very much the case with this collection, given the neutral pallet and the billowy cuts. But there was some element that seemed larger than life. The look didn’t feel like it belonged to the past or the present. It was at once romantic and pragmatic. There was something extraordinary about how ordinary it came across. There was a practical streak, I think, in how everything was lined in thick fabrics and especially roomy. Comfort was definitely a statement he was trying to convey, right down to the noticeably flat shoes. He has a habit of exploring the frumpy and making it charming. I think that was the point, but it was at times hard to tell. He designed more with his heart than his head. It’s a pleasant collection, but it’s nothing too groundbreaking. Once the pieces are dissected and reinvented come Fall, they’ll be welcome dosages of homey charm. For now, however, they’re nice. But how far can nice take you? « Read the rest of this entry »
September 15, 2009 § Leave a comment
Alright kids. We’ve got no time to waste so let’s get to it.
The secret behind the genius of innovative fashion forces like Marc Jacobs is being ahead of the curve. As other designers try to relive the magic Jacobs created last season with his madcap downtown 80’s vibe, he himself has decided to do the polar opposite. The word sure to be on industry heavyweights’ lips come tomorrow morning is ruffles. Just as soon as we tired of the last procession, Jacobs brought them back in full force. All around, the effect was certainly doll-like, and Marc approached his concept with characteristic alacrity. Despite the intricate construction of these new, ruffles 2.0, the look felt flat and stuffy at times. Never one to completely strike out, however, Jacobs managed to get enough quality looks with a total newness to them that we can be sure the collection will entirely pervade the Spring fashion issues next year. And I wouldn’t have it any other way. Full Show Here.
May 5, 2009 § Leave a comment
Last night’s annual Costume Institute Gala (paying tribute to models as muses and chaired by Justin Timberlake, Kate Moss and Anna Wintour) drew some familiar names to its red carpet, although a number of classic muses were noticeably absent over a reported rift between model-favorite Azzedine Alaia and the exhibition’s curators. Bad blood aside, the stars came out and had their usual array of good and bad looks. See the best ones by clicking « Read the rest of this entry »
February 21, 2009 § Leave a comment
Well, folks, New York has almost left the building. The city’s been both good and bad to us this season, but mostly I’ve been underwhelmed. I was very pleased with a select few shows, namely Doo.Ri, Yigal Azrouel, Richard Chai Men’s, and probably a few I can’t remember as well. But I was also very disappointed with some shows, although I’m not about to name names…again. But while we’re still here, let’s look over the last few shows.
(UPDATE:Sorry! I fell asleep before I could post this)
There’s something about Ralph Lauren that constantly gives you the impression that he transcends almost every other designer in the world. Maybe it’s because he’s so nonchalant about his knockout designs, maybe it’s because his clothes could never be called trendy but are never stuck in the past. Either way, his collections are continually exceptional regardless of what challenges he takes on. This season, it seemed especially sleek and refined. He didn’t mess around too much with themes like he had in the past, but he showed beautiful black gowns and slinky sophisticated separates. I swear to god I did not mean to use so much alliteration. Whatever, I’m tired, so I have an meager excuse. Watch out for this Ralph Lauren kid: he’ll do big things one day.